Can it be done?

[Herb G]

I have an old Craftsman table saw from back in the 1980's.
Cast iron table, etc.
It has a 1 HP belt drive motor on it right now. It's the original motor that came with it.
Can it be changed to a higher HP motor?
I mean, all things being equal such as RPM's, frame size, etc.?

I am just wondering is all. Thanks for any input.

[gMike]

I don't see why it would be a big problem. You might have to drill new mounting holes and change the drive pulley if the shaft size changes.

I'm using a Sears contractor saw from the 80s which has been highly modified with a Vega Pro fence, built into a cabinet, and reinforced in a couple of places. One thing I haven't found to be a problem is the 1.5 (claimed) hp motor. Not using full kerf blades helps but mine will spin full kerfs in anything I've ever run through it.

What makes you want to upgrade?

[Herb G]

Just wondering really. I run thin kerf blades too.
I pretty much have to. This thing will bind up cutting 1/4 Masonite with a full kerf carbide tipped blade.

It doesn't have a riving knife either. That bothers me to no end. I have smoked too much expensive wood trying to rip it down to width.

[goaliedad]

Have you checked the blade alignment? Is is parallel to the miter slots and fence? If it binds I suspect is is out of alignment

[doobes]

I put a 1 1/2 hp motor on this many years ago:



It's been fine. I did get a stronger motor mount plate made as the one that came with the saw was kinda thin.

[Pirate]

A friend put a 2 hp on his Sears saw with no problems.

For ripping a decent, sharp, rip blade and proper saw set up should solve problems.
I rip with a 1 HP (large horses) Unisaw and have no problems. Don't have or want a riving knife. I pay attention, and if the cut starts to close up, I just stick a wedge of wood in the cut and continue.

Herb G said:

---

Just wondering really. I run thin kerf blades too.
I pretty much have to. This thing will bind up cutting 1/4 Masonite with a full kerf carbide tipped blade.

It doesn't have a riving knife either. That bothers me to no end. I have smoked too much expensive wood trying to rip it down to width.

---

[mike4244]

Herb, I had a similar saw. With thin kerf blades I had no problem ripping hardwoods. I recall ripping 8/4 beech for a neighbor.
Been awhile but I do not recall any bog down or stalling.I probably slowed the feed rate.I still have the saw but in separate tools.
The stand is now under a bench drill press,motor runs a shop made 1 x 42 sander,cast iron table and one extension are bolted on to cabinet saw .I gave the fence away,kept the miter gauge.
Try a thin kerf rip blade or combination and see if it solves a problem.
I would think you could add a larger motor if it fits.
mike

[Ray Newman]

Herb G: Is the saw on a dedicated circuit? Back-in-the-pre-Uni-saw-day, I ran a Delta 34-444 contractors saw 1.5 HP that ran much better when I had an independent circuit installed. As a millwright once told me, always a good idea to measure the current and check the electrical connections to the motor, plug, and receptacle. Sometimes a loose screw is not the best. Are you running an extension cord of the right gauge?

As others suggested check pulley and motor alignment. How sloppy, loose, worn, etc., is the belt?

[Dave Diaman]

Herb
My father has the same saw you have it sounds like. He put a 5 hp motor on his without too much trouble.

[rwe2156]

Yes you can do it....

I had an old 70's model many years ago (what a hunk of junk THAT was!) and put a 1 1/2HP motor made a big diff.