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Good 'ol clamping pressure with waxed plywood cauls works for me.
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07-21-2016, 07:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-21-2016, 07:19 PM by Bill Schneider.)
I've used the iron-on paper-backed veneer method for all of my loudspeakers. In a nutshell, use a foam paint roller to coat both the veneer and the MDF with Titebond, let them dry, and iron on the veneer.
Here's a link to instructions...
http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/audi...ering.html
It's surprisingly simple and foolproof, and has never given me any trouble even with speakers over 10 years old.
Bill Schneider
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Don't use water based adhesive. DAMHIKT.
And, make sure what you do use is applied smoothly, no lumpty bumpties.
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RD
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That small, you could use hide glue.
I presume the veneer is not backed. If backed, the iron on method is real neat.
If it were me, I'd do the hide glue. It allows errors to be repaired easily. But, its a new skill to learn.
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(07-21-2016, 07:46 PM)K. L, McReynolds Wrote: Don't use water based adhesive. DAMHIKT.
And, make sure what you do use is applied smoothly, no lumpty bumpties.
Perhaps you could clarify what you mean by water based adhesive. I've used PVA, Better Bond and Cold Press all with long term success.
To the OP: this poor man's vacuum veneer system works quite well. It won't pull nearly the vacuum that a pump will, but is quite adequate for your purposes.
thin air press
Contact cement can be used with paperbacked veneer, but never with raw veneer.
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A trick I've seen on TV (Rough Cut) and read about might work (try it first). Coat both the substrate and the veneer (raw wood veener only) with a thin coat of PVA and let it set up. Apply them to each other and iron them on with a hot iron. Apparently the heat softens the adhesive enough to let it bond together. I've not tried it, but someone else may have more detail, or do a search.
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