▼
Posts: 121
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2003
10-30-2017, 02:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-31-2017, 05:47 PM by anwalt.)
I thought I saw a post about a code-compliant electric wire splice that may be hidden in a wall. (provided the local code/inspector agrees)
Had dinner last night with a colleague that cut wires in a wall with a reciprocating saw. If there is such a splice on the market then it could solve his problem. Naturally I said I had seen mention of a new code compliant product. Now I cannot locate the source (if there was one).
Does anyone recall the post I think I saw? If yes, could you direct me?
btw, I have searched 'splice', 'electric wire splice', etc without success.
thx,
tom
___________________________
Thanks to all who replied. The Tyco product will solve the problem.
Members of this forum are generous with their time (of which we have a limited amount) and know-how.
Tom
▼
Posts: 18,425
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee area
Posts: 31,080
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, TN
Must check with AHJ regardless if the item is code compliant.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electro.../202204326
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Posts: 36,528
Threads: 3
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: RTP, NC
You don't work in the Raleigh Durham area do you? I had a conversation with a colleague this morning about the exact same thing. (He was the one who cut the wire, not me).
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
The easy answer is to add a junction box and solid plate where the splice is. One of these over a junction box.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
▼
Posts: 18,425
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee area
(10-30-2017, 03:22 PM)Cooler Wrote: The easy answer is to add a junction box and solid plate where the splice is. One of these over a junction box.
There are lots of reasons that might not work.
For example, if one was cutting in an area that will be concealed by new cabinets, you can't do it.
Another example, if you can't find enough slack to cut/strip/join wires, you'll need two boxes and some additional wire.
If you can replace the wire, that is the best solution. If not, the splice might be best (if allowed).
Posts: 12,596
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
While I agree that the local inspector has the final say, apparently these are code compliant. I had some work done (licensed electricians) and they used one in my house some years back to lengthen a wire that was too short due to the remodeling changes i had made.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
Components have to be acceptable to the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), which is usually the electrical inspector and/or the department or ultimately even the State commissioner. For product acceptability, they usually rely on agency listing, like UL or CSA. That sort of relieves them of having to make a judgement that might put their own necks on the line, as UL/CSA already has. As to the NEC, if the AHJ thinks it's acceptable per 334.40(B), which refers to old work, you're good to go. If not, there's not much you can do about it. But they are approved (UL) for use inside walls.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
▼
Posts: 1,681
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
(10-30-2017, 04:29 PM)TDKPE Wrote: Components have to be acceptable to the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), which is usually the electrical inspector and/or the department or ultimately even the State commissioner. For product acceptability, they usually rely on agency listing, like UL or CSA. That sort of relieves them of having to make a judgement that might put their own necks on the line, as UL/CSA already has. As to the NEC, if the AHJ thinks it's acceptable per 334.40(B), which refers to old work, you're good to go. If not, there's not much you can do about it. But they are approved (UL) for use inside walls.
The way I look at it, if its sold in your area in a HD or Lowes, then it must be code compliant and accepted by most local AHJ's, they are not going to carry an item that is not code compliant or approved by most of the AHJ's, so it should be good to use. I forgot what it was I was looking at online, I believe it was a plumbing fitting, at both Lowes and HD, but it was something that was not available in my area, although I could order it online. I looked into it a little further and it turned out it was something that was not accepted by my state (Virginia) as code compliant, so the local Lowes and HD did not carry the product.
Not to mention, unless this is a project which you pulled a permit for, are you going to call the local Electrical Inspector to inspect your work? How would they know about it?
Paul
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
▼
Posts: 366
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2012
(10-31-2017, 06:43 AM)pprobus Wrote: The way I look at it, if its sold in your area in a HD or Lowes, then it must be code compliant and accepted by most local AHJ's, they are not going to carry an item that is not code compliant or approved by most of the AHJ's, so it should be good to use.
That's not at all true - both HD and Lowes sell many items that are not only not code compliant but are also not accepted by any AHJ within the area and likely the US.
These splices are a great example - NEC says all splices must be in a box and accessible. As TDKPE observes, some ADJ might pass it under the old work rules, but that seems very unlikely. There is no good reason for them to deviate from normal and standard practice, and significant risk if they do so.
Another example is plumbing parts - our local HDs and Lowes sell plumbing parts, even though it is against local ordinance for anyone other than a licensed master plumber to do any work on a plumbing or drain system.
|