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(09-17-2018, 05:12 PM)Tony (Charleston WV) Wrote: Somehow I got talked into painting the base of a small table I've just finished with oil-based paint. My brush work is less then stellar, so I'd thought I'd try a different approach. I've sprayed other finishes, but never paint, let alone oil-based. I have a decent Wagner gun and a Fuji turbine that I bought a few years ago to redo the kitchen in our house. A slew of issues got in the way so we contracted it. Thought I'd use the turbine regularly, but the Wagner works just fine. I should have returned the Fuji but I waited too long. (I'll use either if it matters.)
If you can spray using with HVLP, any things I should be concerned with? I should be doing my own research here, but lately it seems more and more that the opinions out there cover the entire waterfront and then some. "Never paint maple" (yes, the table is maple) to "of course you can paint maple-I do it all the time with great results". 1827+ ways to skin the cat, I guess.
Probably won't be painting the top.
Thanks,
The big concern is the overspray does not dry before being deposited on everything in sight. Count on exhaust fans and everything near by to have a color cast of what you are spraying. Plastic drop cloths will become very sticky so it will stick to your shoes. Roly
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Why OB? Go to SW'S and get them to match the color in one of their WB products. If you must use the OB do it outside, then bring the table inside as soon as it's done to keep the bugs from getting on the wet paint.
John
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Benjamin Moore Advance is a WB Alkyd paint which can be sprayed.
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the one concern i would say is keep the coats light and only enough for coverage. depending on the brand of OB, they can dry slow so too heavy of a coat and it can sag/run.
"of course you can paint maple-I do it all the time with great results".
i can paint boogers if i want.
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09-18-2018, 11:59 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-18-2018, 12:00 PM by Cooler.)
I spray painted my back door with rattle cans of Rustoleum. It turned out fine, though I should have primed the door first as it is chipping in the corners.
I sprayed a candle holder with Rustoleum matte finish over Rustoleum sandable primer and that turned out very nice. It is a very tough finish with very good adhesion. The problem with the rattle cans are the limited color choices.
Compared to the BM product this dries lightning fast. If that is an issue, note the long drying time for Benjamin Moore's Advance.
https://www.theweathereddoor.com/2015/07...alkyd.html
Dry and Re-coat Time
One thing to note about this paint is the dry time and re-coat time. It’s long, and people freak out about it. If you need a project done fast this may not be the paint to use on that project. The paint takes approximately 4 to 6 hours to dry and 16 hours before re-coating. Temperature and humidity can play a role in those times and can increase the dry and re-coat times. To be safe I wait at least 24 hours between coats and sometimes even wait 2-3 days if I can.
PPG's "Breakthrough" has been getting excellent reviews and has much shorter dry times:
http://www.ppgporterpaints.com/products/...rior-paint
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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Oil paint will spray just fine, though you will have to thin it, I've only used HVLP to spray, nit sure how the Wagner will work. But everything said above is true...it's a mess (make that MESS) with the overspray. A good waterborne paint will be almost as durable, and a lot less trouble otherwise.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Can oil based paint can take a week or more to harden. On tools and such, I let it harden for a week or two. It's best durable after a month or two.