I put a new Timberwolf 1/4" blade on my Laguna LT16 and am making gentle s-curves.
They're not tight S's yet the blade is burning the wood--3/4" square cherry and walnut.
Suggestions?
Round over the trailing edge corners of the blade is something that comes to mind.
I've heard of people using a blade stone to knock the edges off fresh blades.
After doing that, you might want some blade stick lube on it.
I forgot to mention that you only do the back edges on the blade. Never the teeth.
are the teeth pointing downward?
Joe
JGrout said:
are the teeth pointing downward?
Joe
made that mistake once i was amazed it actually cut burnt like hell but it did cut. Ill never make that again
Wipedout said:
[blockquote]JGrout said:
are the teeth pointing downward?
Joe
made that mistake once i was amazed it actually cut burnt like hell but it did cut. Ill never make that again
[/blockquote]
It is one of the simplest things and it does happen. I once could have purchased a BS at a yard sale for 25 bucks and after inspecting the saw I offered to show the owner why the saw "would not cut anything " for 25 bucks
I did not take his money....He was very embarrassed but he got a saw that he could use . In the end I did get a good deal on a #7 handplane I wanted
so we both won
Joe
The teeth point down.
I'm beginning to think it's either too many tpi or I need new tires.
It cuts fine with a 1" or 1-1/4" blade.
Are you cutting too fast to let the sawdust escape from the kerf? If you slow down the stock speed and sawdust escape is the problem, burning will diminish. If burning is from a dull blade passing the stock, slowing down will increase the burning.
It's a brand new blade installed correct with no discernible twist or runout.
It's a 3/4" wide, 1-1/2" tall, 6" long piece.
Really shouldn't be having this much trouble.
how many TPI does it have?