I'm getting ready to drywall my shop. While I might hire out the tape and finish portion, I'm currently planning on hanging the sheets ourselves.
The question is around window casements and few doorways (opening that will not have an actual door installed). Do you place the sheet on the wall surface first, and then the small pieces into the window hole second; or the other way around?
If you place the wall sheets first, that leaves a cut edge of the small pieces exposed to the wall side. Placing the small pieces first means you trim the wall sheets against the small pieces. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but I'd like the corners to be done as professionally as possible.
I have a similar situation in a few doorway openings. Putting the side and top pieces in after (versus before) the wall sheets changes the orientation of the seam.
I put the wall sheets up first, cut them to the openings, then installed the filler pieces. Covered the exposed edges with drywall corner bead.
You will cover the corners with an outside corner bead si should not make any difference
The thing to avoid most at doorways and windows is to have a seem aligned vertically or horizontally with the rough opening. The sheets next to door ways should be cut L-shaped and around windows in a C-shape.
The neatest and I think the fast way I saw to do this was to cut the drywall to fit on the wall and only cut for the electrical openings, do not cut for the windows and doors. The hang the drywall in place and then use a rotozip with a bearing tipped cutter to remove the opening for the windows and doors after the piece is hung. This makes the L and C shaped cuts easier while also not requiring any measuring. I'm sure the framers did not make perfectly square and plumb wall openings.
The way I hang sheet rock (normal 8' ceilings) is to install the ceilings first(staggering butt joints).
Then install the wall sheets horizontally, again staggering butt joints. I generally install the bottom sheet first, because that leaves a factory edge towards the floor and a cut edge(if necessary against the ceiling. That also provides a rest for the upper sheet.
For door/window openings, I simply install the sheet over the opening and use a rotary tool(this is what RotoGyp was designed to do---I use a Bosch rotary tool with RotoZip bits) to trim to the opening. That also eliminates trying to piece in ofer the window/door opening and creating extra joints.
That is how many pro hangers do it. Mudding/taping a butt joint is not as easy as a factory joint, so DIYers can install sheets vertically, providing only factory joints to tape.
Seems to me drywall in door openings of a shop will get beat up over time. I'd go with solid wood for durability.
No matter how I did it, the tape and floaters would always laugh at me- so I just do it and enjoy making their day.
Good deal, thanks.
I've got a B&D rotozip tool than makes Harbor Freight look like Festool.
The framing is all within 1/64" of plumb, square, and level.
It was done by a woodworker.
Now to order about 150 sheet of drywall, and a handful of screws.
150 sheets of drywall.......ugh.
You'll be better at it when you're close to finished.
For 150 sheets, order from a drywall supply house. Tell them you want it placed in the rooms. They will send 2 guys and all you have to do is point. Worth every penny.
And don't forget to tip them.
Twinn