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Is there an easy way, or maybe a not so easy way, to remove bark from cherry burls before turning?

I just turn it off.  Kind of messy, but it's easy.

I have used a large draw knife on chain sawn  or riven spindle blanks between centers. It helps to lock the spindle. They are sometimes three sided, at least when I cut them, a draw knife is pretty quick work.

If you want to keep the nice looking wood underneath  then either air pressure or a pressure washer and help the parts off when they are getting loose.

Yeah , kinda was wanting to keep the rough exterior intact. Got a couple nice half rounds and wanted to turn the inside and leave the outside natural, without bark

I'll ask... what's wrong with putting it on the lathe and turning it off? Sure it kinda flings itself, but with my face shield that's never been an issue.

Shouldn't "fling itself" anywhere near a face shield, unless you're cutting above eye level.  To expand the thread on wood being the teacher, you're cutting uphill if the waste rises.  Wood wants to be cut downhill for both ease and smooth surface.

Depending on the vintage of the "burl", vigorous tapping on the bark with a hard-end mallet should loosen things enough for compressed air.  What won't usually comes off with an awl later.  Be especially careful of the fissures in the cherry pieces,  get glue and/or fill in them as they appear, even if you know that you will have to re-adhere and fill several times.  Better that than a flung piece released for insufficient glue.

Saw this in a Lyle Jameison video. I use an air chisel like for body or sheet metal work. I think I paid about 7 bucks for mine at HF. It makes quick work of removing bark and easy to boot.

(01-31-2017, 04:42 PM)crokett™ Wrote: [ -> ]I'll ask... what's wrong with putting it on the lathe and turning it off?  Sure it kinda flings itself, but with my face shield that's never been an issue.

He is wanting to keep the natural effect of the humps and bumps under the bark.

(01-31-2017, 05:31 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: [ -> ]Shouldn't "fling itself" anywhere near a face shield, unless you're cutting above eye level. 

well my experience with bark is that while I'm cutting on the side of the wood that's moving down towards the tool, the bark on the opposite side is moving up. If the bark peels off as I'm turning, I've had it peel all the way to that back side that's traveling upwards, so as it comes off it gets thrown up, not down.