So I got six raised panels to make out of a couple wide curly maple boards. Roughly 28 x 12". Should finish out to 13/16.
So I'm going to use a plane to do it and could use some tips as I've never done it with a plane. And I understand I need to lay out the lines on the sides and the faces. But what plane would you recommend to use for this job? This maple seems to tear out quite easily.
There are several ways to tackle this . Make a panel raising plane - not that hard, and will give you the best results.http://kapeldesigns.blogspot.com/2013/10/fun-with-raised-door-panel-planes-at.html
Use a rabbet plane
http://www.leevalley.com/en/newsletters/...ticle1.htm - you can get similar results with a dado plane, and perhaps with a stanley 45. You would plow grooves at the inside of the raised panel and the outside, then use a standard smoothing plane to make the bevel.
Paul Sellers uses a # 4, but of course won't get the crisp relief that you would get with a rabbet plane
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAezwdKjN2Y and the bevel stays the same angle to the very edge of the board, instead of getting the traditional squaring off at the outer edges.
Thanks for the ideas guys. I would like to use the planes I already have. I have a stanley 289 and 55, LN 140s with fence, LN 10 1/4. And of course smoothing planes. I am hoping that will be enough.
I've used a similar process for raising panels as Derek, but used the 55 first to establish a cove around the main field, then used various hand planes (#'s 4,5 and the LV skew rabbet) to add the angles. I did have some tear out issues going cross grain with the 55 in oak, but sharpening the blade reduced it.
OK gentlemen you guys have showed me how to do it. I think my first order of business is to sharpen my 289 as it hasn't been used in a while and add an auxiliary fence. I look forward to lowering the knicker. I'm resisting going out and buying the Veritas plane which looks great. Have glued up some scrap and I'm going to practice a panel this weekend.
I was trained to do this with a #4, held askew.
Three things to note:
Your blade should be honed as sharp ad you're able.
Care should be taken cross grain, to avoid breakout.
The edge will be tapered.
I can't remember which direction was first, but I think it was was cross grain first, with the grain after.