If you still have the router bit for the dovetail, keep it around. I use mine to lay out the pins first. Others may do tails, I find pins first is way easier to cut, chop, and then lay out the tails using those pins.
Make a stop/base line all the way around. It should match the thickness of the other half of the joint.....3/4" to 3/4"
Use that old bit, mark out the "half" pins on each end. Then flip the bit a bit, and work towards the center of the board...
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I also use a sliding bevel gauge to do most of the lines. ( Usual suspects..)
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Usual rip saw/backsaw. As long as it is filed rip. Small square to mark the cut lines done to the base line. I use those the see where to saw at. I try to split these lines.....doesn't matter on pins. Once you use the pins to mark the tails out, the tails will match.
I clamp the sawn board down to the bench. I chop down only half way through. Don't get in a hurry, as they will just blow out the other side if you try to do it in one shot. Flip the board over, and clean things up...
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Should look like this. The skinny/ pointy part of the pins goes to the outside of the joint. Remember that point. Stand this board straight up, and even with the end of the tail board. Use a sharp pencil/knife/whatever to mark the waste side of the tails. When you cut the waste away. LEAVE the lines.
I have a hard time sawing angled cuts, but, if I lay the tail board on my bandsaw's table, I can see where to cut a lot better. And straighter. I then chop out the waste, again from both faces of the board.
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Once you get here, you can do a test fit. Sharp chisel to pare away any spots that are too tight.
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Hopefully they will look like these.
Paul Sellers has a few videos out there, about how he does his.