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(09-26-2017, 09:21 AM)jteneyck Wrote: [ -> ]With the 1/2" thick ZCI's I make for my Unisaw I use regular screws.  They work fine and are easy to install.  

John

+1 I see no reason to make it harder than this.
(09-26-2017, 08:59 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: [ -> ]If you buy a thousand of them, you won't need to remember what they are called or where to buy them. You'll only need to remember where you put them. Big Grin

Good Point! Laugh
(09-26-2017, 08:59 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: [ -> ]If you buy a thousand of them, you won't need to remember what they are called or where to buy them. You'll only need to remember where you put them. Big Grin

That is why I have 1000 of them.  I could not remember where I put the last 100, or the 100 before that ! Slap
Maybe I'm not holding my tongue right when I do them, but I find any screw in object that close to the edges tends to shorten the life of a ZCI more than just using it. Saying that I should also say I use 1/2" MDF all the time. If I need a lift I just put some electrical tape on the top of the little foot casted into the saw top. Had an old saw? Can't remember maker, it was deeeeep. I used a wad of plumbers putty down in it, stayed good a long time. Gradually sawdust built up on top of it. Swap out was quick, couple of minutes to get rid of the old, couple of minutes to replace it.

Question, for those that do lift, do you do all 4 corners? Or just the back (outfeed) side? I just do the backs, trying for perfect flat can give you a complex, and all I have ever snagged not doing anything is the outfeed edge on narrow boards. Wide stuff just goes over it all. Same with the fronts, even narrow stock will easily slide over the front edge, more problem if your front get's too high.
(09-27-2017, 05:27 PM)Steve N Wrote: [ -> ]Question, for those that do lift, do you do all 4 corners? Or just the back (outfeed) side? I just do the backs, trying for perfect flat can give you a complex, and all I have ever snagged not doing anything is the outfeed edge on narrow boards. Wide stuff just goes over it all. Same with the fronts, even narrow stock will easily slide over the front edge, more problem if your front get's too high.

I do all four corners.  I generally use a #2,3 or 4 flat head screw from the collection of recycled screws.  I screw them into the bottom.  I cannot adjust from the top, so it takes a bit longer to adjust, but adjusting is a one time thing.  I get it very close to perfect, maybe low a 3 or 4 thousand in the front.
I do all four. Not perfect, but just enough to not snag.

One can use cut outs from aluminum soda cans too.
If two pieces is too high and one piece too low, try using one piece from a can of regular cola and the other from a can of diet.
Another way to do it is to apply wax to the tabs that the set screws normally set on,   then apply a glob of hot melt glue on all 4 tabs.   Press the insert down flush and let glue set up.   The wax keeps it from sticking to the metal tabs but is sticks to back of insert.    Works better than you would think.    Roly ( use a steel ruler or other straight edge spanning across opening to get flush )
I use tape to shim.

Is the word that you are looking for "grub screw"?
(09-26-2017, 08:59 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: [ -> ]If you buy a thousand of them, you won't need to remember what they are called or where to buy them. You'll only need to remember where you put them. Big Grin

In that case, buy 5,000 in smaller box quantities and saturate the area.
(09-29-2017, 08:57 AM)Rob Young Wrote: [ -> ]In that case, buy 5,000 in smaller box quantities and saturate the area.

Rob you think like I do Laugh Laugh Laugh Laugh Laugh
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