Anyone have a favorite tape to block stain? I have a project where I have a portion that I do not want stained when I stain the remainder. It lies in the middle of the piece. I'm looking for a tape that will block the stain while not leaving adhesive residue behind.
More and more I'm totally finishing pieces before assembly, allowing them to cure, then some Froggy tape to keep glue squeeze off opposing surfaces. Trying to color one side, and not the other was giving me gray hair, then it all fell out........
The green Frog tape brand is really good about no residue, you would have to try your finish on it to make sure there was absolutely no bleed through, it's very protective against regular paint, and glue. Stain is kinda squirmy, and sometimes flows where ya can't control it.
Frog tape
(11-30-2017, 05:31 PM)Scouter Wrote: [ -> ]Anyone have a favorite tape to block stain? I have a project where I have a portion that I do not want stained when I stain the remainder. It lies in the middle of the piece. I'm looking for a tape that will block the stain while not leaving adhesive residue behind.
I think a lot will depend on what type of stain you are planning to use. I used the yellow (delicate surfaces) Frog tape on the door project to protect the prefinished panels while I stained and finished the rest of the door and there were a few places where the thin, solvent based stain I used bled under the tape. I was able to clean that off afterwards because the panels were finished. If it had been raw wood that would not have been easy.
Steve had it right - test.
John
You could "mask" off the area that you don't want stained with shellac. The shellac will accept almost any top coat you might want to use. Use masking tape to mask the shellac and then remove the tape to stain.
Note: I have not tried this. Test first.
(12-01-2017, 08:17 AM)Cooler Wrote: [ -> ]You could "mask" off the area that you don't want stained with shellac. The shellac will accept almost any top coat you might want to use. Use masking tape to mask the shellac and then remove the tape to stain.
Note: I have not tried this. Test first.
This is true for a finish that is going on thicker, where it won't run. The biggest problem the OP will have with stain is it is basically colored water, and can creep and run off before it gets set, even on shellac. I'd used your reasoning before thinking it to be sound, and I didn't do too well. Corners and crevices were the difficult parts, and it sounds like that is what OP wanted to work on.
Wonderful, not receiving posting notices again. Sigh. Thought I had this resolved.
I am using a tung oil varnish as the finish, I don't think that will be enough to keep seeping. Sounds like green or yellow Frog tape. What is the difference, anyone know? Have the green at a local HW store, but he doesn't carry the yellow.
Green is masking the first go round on unfinished wood.
Yellow is masking over freshly finished surfaces, and won't pull the newest finish off when you pull off the tape.
So a kinder, gentler, more forgiving, tack on the tape.
I only use the Green, and have found on paint if you don't leave it over newly painted surfaces for more than a few hours it won't cause problems. So do a finish, allow it to cure a day or 3, then when you use the green, only leave it on long enough to get you other color done, and you will probably be good. As always test on some scrap of the same woods involved, so you don't get surprised.
i found the best way to accomplish what youre looking to do is take a razor blade and make a shallow cut along the border of the area i want stained. ive been able to get clean,crisp lines and the cut isnt noticed when completed