Doesn't explain how.
Just says that it does it.
I don't see it.
(05-15-2018, 07:42 AM)Pirate Wrote: [ -> ]Doesn't explain how.
Just says that it does it.
I don't see it.
Imagine an F-style clamp. When you clamp something between the jaws, the bar tends to flex inwards towards the piece being clamped, right? Now put another F-style clamp on the opposite face of that board. Now you have 2 bars flexing inward towards your piece. Now replace those bars with the wooden cauls in this panel clamp setup, and when you turn the toggle, the wooden cauls bow inward holding your panel flat.
Mike,
I had to read that a couple of times before it clicked. Sounds like a great system for a production shop.
Here is another flatner that can be used with pipe clamps or parallels to make some pretty sweet panel clamp ups.
http://www.cggschmidt.com/larryclamp.html
BTW - Love the DIY idea too. Just showing some other ideas I think are cool.
That's the same video I linked, I think.
Another video suggested by YouTube also appeals to me.
If one part of each set of wedges is drilled with a series of half-holes that match the D of the bolt, then it should stay put.
I might give this style a try.
(05-15-2018, 08:13 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: [ -> ]Mike,
I had to read that a couple of times before it clicked. Sounds like a great system for a production shop.
Inexpensive too. I made 7 pairs of these cauls which is enough for at least 8'-0" of panel length. The bolts and washers probably cost under $20.00 and I do not recall the cost of the cast T nuts. The first couple of years I had stamped steel T nuts in the cauls, one by one they stripped out. I replaced them with the cast ( zinc I believe) T nuts and have never had those strip out. The lumber was just stuff laying around. Even in a home shop , this method would work as the cost is low and when not needed the cauls take up very little room.
mike
