I have not used Walnut for a plane body, but IIRC, I did see a few like that years ago. I don't think it would be a problem with or without bubinga as a sole. I have a number of wooden planes, and while tapping the iron works to advance the blade, I have never had much success in backing it off a bit for a less aggressive cut, I think the Norris style is a great idea.
(07-03-2023, 07:06 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: [ -> ]I have not used Walnut for a plane body, but IIRC, I did see a few like that years ago. I don't think it would be a problem with or without bubinga as a sole. I have a number of wooden planes, and while tapping the iron works to advance the blade, I have never had much success in backing it off a bit for a less aggressive cut, I think the Norris style is a great idea.
Yeah, I’ve had the same issue with backing out the blade. I can do it, but not with enough precision. I usually end up backing it out by too much, then advancing it more carefully. Much like dealing with backlash in a mechanical device. Thanks for your input.
Just thinking about the OP's post and possible issues.
If the walnut is quarter-sawn and the bottom is flat-sawn, then that would seem like a worst-case situation for differential expansion and contraction trying to crack the walnut.
Am I just worrying about stuff that won't happen?
(07-06-2023, 12:00 AM)iclark Wrote: [ -> ]Just thinking about the OP's post and possible issues.
If the walnut is quarter-sawn and the bottom is flat-sawn, then that would seem like a worst-case situation for differential expansion and contraction trying to crack the walnut.
Am I just worrying about stuff that won't happen?
A valid point, to be sure. I don’t have a final decision on whether to laminate a different material on the sole or not. I would try to do so with the same grain orientation if possible, but I wonder how big a deal differential expansion would be in a glue joint barely more than 2” wide. I also wonder how important it is for the plane body to be quartersawn at all in a smoothing plane. I know it’s traditional in molding planes, where precise width is presumably more important. This chunk of walnut is big enough to cut out a billet in any orientation I want.
I’m still pondering. Thanks for helping me think out loud.
I have the same kit from Lee Valley and have had for about 5 years now. I have the walnut chunk for it but I always seem to get distracted. I have even forgot about it until now so thanks. Make it how you want to if the wood fails over time then make it out of something else , you will always have the vise parts.
Tom
(07-13-2023, 07:50 AM)tablesawtom Wrote: [ -> ]I have the same kit from Lee Valley and have had for about 5 years now. I have the walnut chunk for it but I always seem to get distracted. I have even forgot about it until now so thanks. Make it how you want to if the wood fails over time then make it out of something else , you will always have the vise parts.
Tom
I recently came to the same conclusion (regarding using the hardware again in something else). In fact, I think I’ve decided against using the walnut and going with cherry. I did some reading and I don’t think grain orientation even matters. David Finck describes quarter, rift, and flatsawn but does not express a preference. I’ve got some 8/4 cherry scrap and no better use for it so I think I’ll laminate it into a billet. I’ve got some bubinga on the way for the sole. If it fails, so what? I’ll reuse the hardware, I’ll learn something, and I’ll have fun. Thanks.
Addendum:
https://lostartpress.com/products/making...1f00&_ss=r