Maybe this belongs in power tools, but I think the hand tools crowd will have the edge. You know the technique where you make a 6-sided box, then saw the top off? If you have done this on a bandsaw, how did you do it? One cut? Cut in from each each? A different method?

I'm sure if I get reasonably flat and even cuts, I can true up the top and bottom with hand planes. I've never tried this method, not sure the best way to get an even cut all the way through. 

Thanks in advance.

My vote goes to Derek's Blue Tape Trick

With failing vision, the increased contrast makes it much easier to the cut line, especially in dark woods. Works equally well for power and hand. Ut's tough to cut to the line when you cannot see the line.

Latex painted surfaces on trim end up with bare spots when subjected to wear. How do you sand these surfaces to level them out, feathering out edges. Any hi-speed sanders will heat the paint uracymaking the surface condition worse. Stripping the paint is absolutely not an option.

Selling a Knew Concepts Mk 3 fret saw in like-new condition. This is the popular 5-inch model in red anodized aluminum, with unfinished wood handle.  Blade rotates 45 degrees up or down.  This is an excellent saw for removing dovetail waste.  Comes with a new no. 5 skip-tooth blade for that purpose.  $75. Shipped.  PayPal preferred.  First PM gets it.

https://i.postimg.cc/0QrGGM0G/IMG-0436.jpg

I have the dual base Dewalt trim router for which I would like to get an edge guide. The motor is DWP611 and the plunge base (which has the guide rod holes) is DWP611PK. Anyone know the correct edge guide part # for the plunge base? I do not need or want to spend the money on a Micro-Fence setup. I just do not do that much routing.

Thanks for your thoughts and leads

I'm getting ready to remove laminate flooring on a plywood sub floor that was painted (21 years ago). I'll be replacing this with the above product. If the painted floor is still in great shape, should I remove the paint anyway?

In the latest issue of WS (p. 9), one published tip tells you to bolt a T-track to the miter saw fence (front face) and use it with a sliding stop as a stop block. I have seen my share of impractical tips in various magazines, but this one earns one of the top three spots in that category.

Such an add-on to the fence would reduce as much as half of the cutting capacity of your miter saw.

Totally unbelievable that it would appear on the pages of WS. You will have to see it yourself to believe it.

Simon

I am one who never perspires.  I simply go from calm straight to dripping sweat.  The TS gets the brunt of it and of course I don't always get all of it wiped up.  Today it is only 95 in the shop so it's a good day to clean the cast iron.


Boeshield Stain and Rust Remover with a green pad did a quick job on the rust and stains...but...this time the Boeshield created its own stains.  The bottle is more than ten years old and I ran out.  So does Boeshield have a shelf life of less than 10 yrs?

The ROS with 150 through 600 grit removed the Boeshield stains. The top is slicker than snot and protected with Boeshield 9 but that took more than an hour than it should have.  I know there are those who do not like Boeshield so I was wondering if they had similar experiences?

The latest Fine Woodworking issue has a reader's tip on using a file to fine fit the dovetail joint. Is a file part of your dovetail kit too?

Simon

Will add pictures but all are in perfect condition

2x40"
2x50"
6x24"
4x31" (Two JETs/Two Bessy)

Would  prefer local pickup in the Allentown PA area but can ship on your dime but I'm sure shipping would be a lot.

Looking for $450 for all