how do you replace a drawer front? - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: how do you replace a drawer front? (/showthread.php?tid=7323009) Pages:
1
2
|
how do you replace a drawer front? - EricU - 09-21-2016 Since I've already gone down the rabbit hole of kitchen mods, I realized the thing I hate the most about our cabinets is the drawer front. I know some drawers are made with a box and front, but ours are solid. So if I was to replace the fronts, does this mean I would also need to get boxes and do the whole thing? Trying to think of some other method. Actually, I'm starting to think about replacing all the doors too, that seems a lot more doable. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - GHR - 09-21-2016 One way to do this would be to build a front in the drawer right behind the existing front. Glue/nail it to the sides. Then saw the existing front off and replace it. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - EricU - 09-21-2016 that's an interesting idea. I was thinking about resawing the current front in place, but maybe cutting them off entirely is a better idea. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - Bob10 - 09-21-2016 I have sawed the fronts flat and added molding to frame them up something like this Or you might try something like this and focus on nice hardware more than one way to get that RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - crokett™ - 09-21-2016 (09-21-2016, 11:54 AM)GHR Wrote: One way to do this would be to build a front in the drawer right behind the existing front. Glue/nail it to the sides. Then saw the existing front off and replace it. I actually know somebody who did that. It worked out quite nicely for him. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - rwe2156 - 09-22-2016 Building a front behind the existing from and sawing off? Won't that leave the ends of the sides exposed? What am I missing? My response it it depends on why they need replacing, the jointer and what the drawer is made of (I've seen some pretty awful poor built drawers that needed to be replaced). I would consider face joint and veneer. I think this is a much better solution than resawing or building a whole new front.\ Plus, if the drawer is 1/2 blind dovetailed, this is a great option to avoid losing the joinery. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - EricU - 09-22-2016 the idea is to get new fronts from a company that makes drawer fronts and cabinet doors. I just don't like the current style, I think it makes the kitchen look dated. I'm not sure I can joint off the front. Or if I can, it would be the same as resawing it. It isn't obvious to me what the current construction is, no visible dovetails though. I would definitely save that. Maybe they have sliding dovetails, have to go look Yes, as a woodworker I should be ashamed of myself for thinking of this, but I probably would have trouble getting this finished if I was making the fronts myself My feeling is that these are solid cabinets, unfortunately dated looking doors and drawer fronts. I don't want to gut the kitchen right now, other projects have priority, and that sort of renovation definitely adds stress that we don't need in the current family situation. I would also like to replace the doors, but that seems straightforward. I have already re-hinged the pantry with european hinges, that was a big upgrade. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - EricU - 09-22-2016 front of the drawers is stapled on to the box. Jointing/resawing probably is the easiest approach. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - Mr_Mike - 09-22-2016 I would just make new boxes. I'd never be satisfied with a kludged look. RE: how do you replace a drawer front? - Cooler - 09-28-2016 I would not saw off the front. I would saw off the lip around the drawer front. Then I would remount the drawer hardware so the drawer retracts the extra 3/4" (or whatever) and mount a new front in front of that. You lose a little bit of space but the operations are pretty easy. A Japanese pull saw or a cross cut saw will make quick work of thee lips so there is little chance of a screw up. The only issue is, do you have enough depth in the cabinet to accommodate the extra 3/4" required. |