(10-11-2018, 01:57 PM)bandit571 Wrote: Most of what I do, and how I do it..falls somewhere between a Norm Abram and a Roy Underhill....

Free Time?   I am Retired....have to do something, in order to stay "busy".  

OK, waiting on the spot in the living room to be cleared out, a bit of floor repair...and maybe re-do an outlet to better handle the plug-ins.   I can go ahead and cut the plywood backs to size.   They were left off, to make the case easier to be hauled up the stairs of the shop.   Once the case is ready to go into the Living Room, I can add the plywood backs, and then slide the case to the wall.  

Problem with the drawer....opening for it was indeed square...triple checked as the face frame was installed.    Turned out, the drawer front blank had a slight taper.....instead of a nice rectangle.....I squared from the bottom edge of it, when cutting the ends.   Even used that same edge when laying out and cutting the dovetails.....what I missed was the top edge was just under 1/8" different  at one end, than the other.    Was running into a lot of that, with that rough-sawn, skip-planed Ash.   Tall end was just the right height, as I set the frame to that.....the right side was the skinny end. 

Door problem:   Opening for the door on the right side,  was square, as i built the face frame.   Half-lap joint was square.    Problem arose with the frame of the Frame & Raised Panel door....Got in a hurry,,,and squared ( I thought) the end that was crooked.....turn out it is was square, the square USED was not..and the top edge was cut at an angle....IF I had re-cut it to square it up..would have lost too much material....was better to just add the filler strip.  

Door did have "issues" during the glue-up....bottom rail of the door wasn't  squared up.    Stiles then tried to match up....one wound up being "lower" than the other....was able to hammer adjust while in the clamps.    A diagonal clamp ( like I use on box builds) would not fit....other clamps and cauls were in the way.

One thing to watch out for.....the stiles tended to bow a bit....even with the clamps.....and that can affect  how a square registers....

Used to be, on drawers, I would use an overlay style.   Ends and along the top edge had a rabbet, to cover the open....bottom never did.  Kind of hard to do through dovetails, though.  

Problems with tapered stock:   Even the sides for the door had a slight taper.....works IF they both taper the same direction, as you can put the "narrow end" at the back of the drawer.   BUT, if one taper is placed at the wrong end, throws things out of whack.  

I also tend to leave a gap all the way around a drawer...other than the bottom edge.    Ovoids "sticky" drawers....piston fit ones around here tend to "weld shut" when it gets real humid.  

As always, anyone is free to stop in, sometime, and help out.....I don't bite, really.    Shop is a bit crowded, but works for a single wood worker.    I can just about reach any tool, with a step or two.   Been known to send helpers home, after donating a tool or two to them.   Have a plane you are having trouble with?   Bring it along, and you take home a working plane.   The same one you brought.

(10-11-2018, 03:33 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: It wasn't a coincidence that these people who built/build complex things had/have shop assistants: Sam Maloof, Tage Frid, David Savage, Michael Fortune, etc. Complex glue-ups are not a one-person job unless you want to risk a screw-up.

Simon

(10-12-2018, 01:37 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: So how does a person fix the square or is it just thrown away?