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+-- Thread: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions (/showthread.php?tid=7095842)
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Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - rschissler - 09-13-2015
If your saw has the power, why consider a thin kerf blade, especially since Sawstop recommends against it?
A stand alone, independent router table is the way to go. There isn't anything worse than having to lower a bit from it's perfect height, because you have to cut something.
Do any of you guys wish you had got the 52" rails instead?
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - macpiano - 09-13-2015
I had the 36 inch rails on the Ridgid so I knew I wanted the 52 inch. I've ripped enough 4 foot wide ply to more than 36 inches to have never regretted it
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - dlgWoodWork - 09-13-2015
Thanks for all the info. I don't have room (right now) for a dedicated router table. So building one in to the table is my best option. I understand the advantages of a separate table for the router but my current shop layout/space prohibits it.
I think I will sell the thin kerf blades and get a good full kerf blade.
If I had room to get the 52" rails I would but the 36" will serve me well.
I've got a fellow Woodnetter searching for a deal on one now. I will update as I get more info.
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - Bill Lyman - 09-13-2015
What what it is worth. I have a 2nd shop with an older Delta contractor's saw and a router table extension. I have not had a conflict between the two.
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Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - BloomingtonMike - 09-13-2015
BloomingtonMike said:
I own the ICS. Have since 2006. This is the last North American cabinet saw I will buy. It saved the tip of my thumb on Dec 23rd, 2014 so I am happy to have it for sure. Put two hours on it today and it is just as great as day one. Folks have put cast iron benchdog router tables on the PCS.
My SS is North American style table saw vs a Euro sliding table saw. My SS was made in Taiwan. Someone asked me in a PM. I never throw out the option of owning a Euro slider someday which is why I clarified my statement.
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - Anthony W - 09-14-2015
Side question to the OP. Instead of thick kerf, can one use the Freud or other box joint blades (the blade pair with the extra wide teeth) on a SawStop TS?
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - Chuck Nickerson - 09-14-2015
Anthony W said:
Side question to the OP. Instead of thick kerf, can one use the Freud or other box joint blades (the blade pair with the extra wide teeth) on a SawStop TS?
Yes. Since my BJBs are 8" I just install the dado brake cartridge.
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - Guest - 09-14-2015
I sold my Unisaw 3 years ago and bought a 3 hp SawStop ICS. Like you, safety was my only reason for trading. The Unisaw was an excellent,well built saw. The SawStop is every bit its equal or better. I will not buy another saw.
I have used Freud Fusion blades in my sawStop with no problems, and I have occasionally used a Freud TK rip blade, also with no issues. The Fusion blade is somewhere between a 1/8" full kerf and a thin kerf, maybe 3/32. No issues with the riving knife. I was not aware of the concern about blade deformation in the event of a brake trigger. I may rethink using the TK rip blade.
I substituted the left table extension with a cast iron Bench Dog router table extension and have been very happy with it. The ICS table is about 3" deeper than the PCS table. The Bench Dog router table extension was too narrow to bridge the full depth of the saw table, so I filled in the gaps with some heavy aluminum square tub. It works fine. Also, the mounting holes on the CI table extension didn't match the holes on the SawStop table. I took the CI extension to a local machine shop and had them mill the holes to match the saw's mounting holes. Works fine. I think Bench Dog now makes CI router table extensions especially for the SawStop, so those issues may no longer be problems.
Here's a photo of my set-up:
Hank
P.S. I use my Freud box joint blade and an 8" Forrest Dado King with the 8" blade brake and a dado table insert. Both work fine. Except for the discomfort of having to crawl around on the floor to change the blade brakes, I don't find any difference using dado-type blades between the SawStop and my old Unisaw.
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - BloomingtonMike - 09-15-2015
I change the brake through the throat plate on my ICS - can you not do that on a PCS?
Re: Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions - Alan S - 09-15-2015
ruffcutt said:
...
http://www.sawstop.com/support/faqs
... Blades with kerfs much thinner than 3/32” should not be used because those blades might not be strong enough to withstand the force applied by the brake when it activates.
A thin kerf blade tends to cut 3/32" or a bit more. They are warning against a super thin kerf: "standard" thin kerf blades are fine on a Sawstop.