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+-- Thread: Part 2 of rust removal (/showthread.php?tid=7134708)
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Re: Part 2 of rust removal - thewizzard - 11-05-2015
With just a little scroll saw table like this you could very easily laminate it with your choice of a thousand laminates or go with a spiffy carbon fiber sheet.
Nothing wrong with paint either. Wouldn't be my first choice for a table saw or band saw but for scroll saw it would hold up fantastically
Re: Part 2 of rust removal - Cooler - 11-05-2015
thewizzard said:
With just a little scroll saw table like this you could very easily laminate it with your choice of a thousand laminates or go with a spiffy carbon fiber sheet.
Nothing wrong with paint either. Wouldn't be my first choice for a table saw or band saw but for scroll saw it would hold up fantastically
And laminate offers excellent wear qualities and very good lubricity. How to get it to adhere is an issue, however. Lots of iron castings have graphite in them and that makes them difficult to glue to.
Re: Part 2 of rust removal - Bill Wilson - 11-05-2015
I imagine double backed tape might work. Generally not a lot of stress & wear put on the surface of a scroll saw table.
Re: Part 2 of rust removal - Mr_Mike - 11-05-2015
Cooler said:
[blockquote]thewizzard said:
[blockquote]Herb G said:
... I need to figure out a way to even it out all over the table though.
Dump some more drain cleaner on it, spread it around until the entire surface looks uniform, then flush it off. Completely neutralize any acid with a thin paste of baking soda and water. Flush that off, dry it, and sand it.
[/blockquote]
If that were an acceptable solution (and I don't think it is) then bead blasting the surface would work better. But the problem with either of these solutions is that it will significantly increase the friction between the surface and the work piece. And I don't think you want that on a saw table.
[/blockquote]
I would do this too. Use the same chemical on the entire surface to even up the patina just for looks.
Then, the traditional wet sandpaper treatment to clean and polish.
Of course, doing nothing also works.
Re: Part 2 of rust removal - axlotal - 11-05-2015
Herb G said:
from having acid drain cleaner spilled on it.
Drain cleaner is usually lye so it is a base not an acid
This is really really important if you are going to try to go in the other direction in terms of pH.
That said I'd just get a slurry of baking soda and water on it and after a twenty minute soak take Bar Keeper's friend to the whole surface.
If anything can make it shiny and new again that will.
Then flood it with a little Kero, to drive off the water, wipe it and wax it.
Re: Part 2 of rust removal - Redman - 11-06-2015
Just use the usual sandpaper, oil then a nonwoven abrasive pad and oil, clean as best you can apply wax. Cast iron rusts, it is the second best if not the first best thing it does. Once it gets evenly dark it'll be even purtier.