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+-- Thread: I have a question for a faceplate (/showthread.php?tid=7247116)
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Re: I have a question for a faceplate - Angus - 03-20-2016
Arlin, I've turned some huge stuff by most standards. I've never needed or wanted anything bigger than the factory 6" the lathe came with. as for using flywheels....Twin is right. The fit and weld will need to be perfect otherwise you will have a built in wobble. You will also have to have a machine shop detooth it somehow. Every flywheel I've seen has teeth around the outside for the starter to engage. If they torch the teeth off they will have to machine it flat because it will likely warp from the heat. The other process wold be to weld it up, remove the teeth then machine it flat. Either way your not looking at a cheap process unless you have a machinist friend.
You should also consider the amount of weight that will add to the turning and wear that will cause on the lathe.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - MichaelMouse - 03-20-2016
They don't sweat the gear on anymore?
Were I a wagering type, I'd wager that anything that big would never see the sunny side of 600 rpm, and minor imbalance would be a non-player.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - Arlin Eastman - 03-20-2016
OK guys
You have given me a lot of stuff to think about.
I just threw out 16" but mostly I think I could use a 10" to keep flex down to a minium and I also did not know of anyone who sold 8".
What I made 15" sanding disc for my lathe and I also make a neat platform using the banjo so everything is 90* put together, however, I have a 6" aluminum faceplate and it is allowing flex when sanding.
So I figures a face plate that is 12" to 14" would support the 1.5" wooden plate that holds the 15" sand paper.
Plus I really really like to use face plates for bowls and other turnings when I can and then finish up with a chuck.
For some turnings I like bigger faceplates with shorter screws and with others small face plate with longer screws.
I do like the idea of getting a tap and making my own faceplates but can not even find a tap that size. Most of them I find are 1 1/4 x 7 or 7.5 not 8.
Thanks for help and advise.
Arlin
Also I am really bummed today when RockRod's wife emailed me of his passing.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - Arlin Eastman - 03-20-2016
Twinn
The link did not show the nut.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - n7bsn - 03-20-2016
Arlin Eastman said:
Twinn
The link did not show the nut.
I note it didn't on mine either, which i why I gave the sku number
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - Angus - 03-20-2016
Arlin Eastman said:
OK guys
You have given me a lot of stuff to think about.
I just threw out 16" but mostly I think I could use a 10" to keep flex down to a minium and I also did not know of anyone who sold 8".
What I made 15" sanding disc for my lathe and I also make a neat platform using the banjo so everything is 90* put together, however, I have a 6" aluminum faceplate and it is allowing flex when sanding.
So I figures a face plate that is 12" to 14" would support the 1.5" wooden plate that holds the 15" sand paper.
Plus I really really like to use face plates for bowls and other turnings when I can and then finish up with a chuck.
For some turnings I like bigger faceplates with shorter screws and with others small face plate with longer screws.
I do like the idea of getting a tap and making my own faceplates but can not even find a tap that size. Most of them I find are 1 1/4 x 7 or 7.5 not 8.
Thanks for help and advise.
Arlin
Also I am really bummed today when RockRod's wife emailed me of his passing.
Arlin, I plan on turning my current lathe into at least a 15" disc sander. I plan on using a 6" FP. The disc will be 1 inch mdf that is bolted to the FP. Boly heads will be countersunk and epoxied into the mdf. Nuts will be on the back side of the FP. I will be able to true up the face to dead flat right on the lathe. If I deflect 1 inch mdf while sanding I need a coarser grit or more patience
MM, your right, at least on flex plates for automatics not sure there sweated on true flex plates.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - dartman - 03-20-2016
Arlin,if you use a flywheel,have a machine shop bore the center and thread it with your spindle thread.After that have them drill your mounting holes.Doing it this way,I think it would be true and square with no welding.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - iclark - 03-20-2016
Arlin Eastman said:
I do like the idea of getting a tap and making my own faceplates but can not even find a tap that size. Most of them I find are 1 1/4 x 7 or 7.5 not 8.
If you are game to do an all wood faceplate, then lots of places carry the Beall Spindle Taps.
If you make it out of plywood, I would cut the threads and then saturate the threads with thin CA glue. After the glue is thoroughly dry, I would run the tap again to clean up the thread.
I don't think that I would try the Beall taps in steel or iron without asking the manufacturer. I might be game to try it in some of the aluminum alloys with liberal use of Alumitap or another good tap fluid.
Another option would be a Shopsmith 12" sanding disk with a spindle adapter to the 5/8" smooth from your spindle. Shopsmith makes the flat sanding disks in PSA and in velcro attachment. The flat Shopsmith sanding disks are fairly common on the used market since one came with every SS. The conical sanding disks are a lot harder to find.
If you are a Nova chuck user, you might also consider a Nova 130mm faceplate ring attached to a flat plate that holds your sandpaper.
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - AnthonyYak - 03-20-2016
I'm going to stick my neck out here. There is no reason you need a 25 pound 15 inch face plate, none!!
Re: I have a question for a faceplate - AnthonyYak - 03-20-2016
I saw this bowl when they were turning it
link