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+-- Thread: Insulating the woodshop (/showthread.php?tid=7325269)
RE: Insulating the woodshop - daddo - 11-18-2016
2x6 walls and r38 attic would be ideal. Wouldn't cost that much more.
If you like to have videos going or your favorite woodworking show- get a older flat screen 40-42" TV. I have one and it puts out about 600 watts and heats my shop while I watch/listen to "Tool Time". LOL.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - Robert Adams - 11-18-2016
I'm assuming it's a metal building or similar so nothing to attach anything to on the walls. So I'd 2x4 frame the walls then spray foam it. Then you can plywood or drywall.
Then I would insulate the doors. I insulated mine with left over metal building fiberglass insulation. Just cut to fit and tape it in place. You can screw on aluminum to the inside if you want.
As for the floor... My shop floor gets very hot in the summer but after a layer of the foam tiles from costco it stays much cooler. Would love a heated and cooled floor...
RE: Insulating the woodshop - tomsteve - 11-18-2016
no help here, but glad to see someone had their priorities straight and is looking at a woodshop with house attached and not house with woodshop attached!
RE: Insulating the woodshop - meackerman - 11-18-2016
I almost had my wife convinced to buy a house on a bit of land that had a 4000 sq ft shop on it....were even in contract for it....but then another house came on the market that she liked even more (and it was a better deal, sans a shop) that we ended up buying instead.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - Cecil - 11-18-2016
(11-18-2016, 06:57 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Using electric heat there would take Bill Gates money, I suspect. I like Mark's idea...call an insulating firm and ask them.
Actually we have some of the cheapest electric available. ~ $0.067 per kWh. Drive a short distance and it doubles in price. We make up for it in taxes though. There is natural gas to the house, and I could extend it to the garage. I have read the gas puts moisture into the air as a byproduct of burning. Assuming what I read was true, and since the price is about the same, I would prefer electric. My previous house had a forced air electric furnace.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - Cecil - 11-18-2016
(11-18-2016, 12:06 PM)Robert Adams Wrote: I'm assuming it's a metal building or similar so nothing to attach anything to on the walls. So I'd 2x4 frame the walls then spray foam it. Then you can plywood or drywall.
Then I would insulate the doors. I insulated mine with left over metal building fiberglass insulation. Just cut to fit and tape it in place. You can screw on aluminum to the inside if you want.
As for the floor... My shop floor gets very hot in the summer but after a layer of the foam tiles from costco it stays much cooler. Would love a heated and cooled floor...
It has plywood sheeting (not OSB) on the outside walls, with vinyl siding. It is 4x4 post, 2/4 horizontally, to which the sheeting attaches. If I run 2x4 on the inside, I will have 6" walls.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - MikeBob - 11-18-2016
(11-18-2016, 06:00 PM)Cecil Wrote: Actually we have some of the cheapest electric available. ~ $0.067 per kWh. Drive a short distance and it doubles in price. We make up for it in taxes though. There is natural gas to the house, and I could extend it to the garage. I have read the gas puts moisture into the air as a byproduct of burning. Assuming what I read was true, and since the price is about the same, I would prefer electric. My previous house had a forced air electric furnace.
Yes you at correct about the moisture IF it is a non vented type of heater, oil or gas, you get 1 gallon of H2O per 100,000BTUs in your shop. If it is vented heater the moisture goes out the chimney.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - daddo - 11-18-2016
The furnace just heats the air, it doesn't add or remove moisture unless it gets it's combustion air from the home or is non-vented.
The change in humidity comes from temperature change in relation to the outdoor air entering the home.
Leaky doors and windows let outdoor air in the home. If it is wet outside, the moisture level goes up- if it is dry outside, it goes down.
Humidity is relative to moisture in the air at a given temperature.
If the house gets dry- try boiling some homemade chicken soup on the stove- take long showers or hot baths. Reduce outdoor ventilation/infiltration. Hope for rain.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - Robert Adams - 11-19-2016
(11-18-2016, 05:27 PM)tomsteve Wrote: no help here, but glad to see someone had their priorities straight and is looking at a woodshop with house attached and not house with woodshop attached!
The deal with LOML was when we bought a house it either had shop or had room for a shop. So I have a nice insulated metal building for my shop.
Now that we are looking for places in SC between Spartanburg and Charlotte it's proving to be allot harder as the property sizes are much smaller there and few houses have shops or outbuildings.
RE: Insulating the woodshop - rayknight - 11-19-2016
Let me put in a vote for Mini-split heat pump/AC. The new ones remain relatively efficient (in heat pump mode) to much lower temperatures than they used to. Get Air Conditioning with the deal (hobby now 4 seasons). Don't take up any floor space, no service except blowing out the filter a few times a year. I chose to skip electric resistance heating coils (less expensive up front, and when it is really cold (under 20F) I chose to stay inside. I'm located in southern Indiana, and shut it down 2-3 weeks a year. Have not seen a noticeable difference in electric bill, but I'm sure that could be calculated.
Will cost a bit more up front, less applicable in intensely cold northern area, don't heat as quickly, so make less sense for those who don't want to heat regularly. I keep it at 68 in the winter and 76 in the summer. and forget about it until the season changes and I toggle to the other mode and blow the dust out.
Ray