Reverse rainbow jointing? - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: Reverse rainbow jointing? (/showthread.php?tid=7331739) Pages:
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RE: Reverse rainbow jointing? - Phil Thien - 07-17-2017 (07-16-2017, 08:22 PM)JGrout Wrote: you may find it odd then that when I was taught the process above the entire jointer was a mere 42" long the infeed was 28" of that. I was tasked with flattening stock 8' long for door stiles. The two things I did not mention was that I could choose the stock for length out of full bunks of lumber and two I bolted the jointer to the floor because the usual hardwoods in 8/4 would tip the jointer at the end of the cuts. I find that using the conventional approach to face-joint a 4-5' long board on this jointer, that I can expect about .01" (or a little more) of crown at the center when done. So if I place the piece of wood down on my very-flat workbench after jointing it, I can slip a playing card between the board and my bench at about the halfway length of the board. It isn't much, I can easily press that out with just a little pressure from a finger. [Therein lies much of the problem, actually. That little amount IS pressed-out during jointing, only to immediately spring-back.] And yet, that little amount doesn't typically interfere when it comes to projects. I was working on a project w/ 8/4 lumber though and thought it would be nice to get it flatter. That is why I was looking at my technique. This works (so far), it is fast and doesn't require much thought or any special technique, just a little dexterity to open the guard and hope-past the cutterhead. Boards face-jointed thusly are straight enough that I can't slip a post-it note between the board, and my workbench. RE: Reverse rainbow jointing? - JGrout - 07-17-2017 Quote:It isn't much, I can easily press that out with just a little pressure from a finger. [Therein lies much of the problem, actually. That little amount IS pressed-out during jointing, only to immediately spring-back.] Ok now that I got the rest of the story I can suggest this: work on your technique once you have about 12" of stock on the outfeed table move _both _ of your hands to the outfeed side of the jointer and continue cutting. You cannot push out a bow if the reference surfaces (the stock and the outfeed table) have intimate connection with the outfeed table only. I bet your .01 goes away in a pass or two Joe RE: Reverse rainbow jointing? - Phil Thien - 07-17-2017 (07-17-2017, 09:50 AM)JGrout Wrote: Ok now that I got the rest of the story I can suggest this: work on your technique Keep in mind, a 12" segment of a 60" board bowed .01" across the length will likely already be flatter than the specifications for my 12-14" long outfeed table. That is, for a 60" board with .01" bow in the middle: (.01 / (60/2)) * (12/2) or .002" would be the bow in the middle of any 12" segment. So for all intents and purposes, a 30" long jointer will consider a 60" long board with .01" of bow, already flat. Sure, I can attack it like one would with a hand plane, I plan on continuing with the RR method a while and see if it continues to do better, though. RE: Reverse rainbow jointing? - JGrout - 07-17-2017 Based on your spec then I would say no matter which way you flatten stock you will do no better than your jointer is capable of. RE: Reverse rainbow jointing? - Tapper - 07-17-2017 (07-16-2017, 08:35 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Personally, I'll stick with the conventional approach. Dittos! Has worked fine to this point; no reason to change. Doug |