Apothecary chest - Printable Version

Apothecary chest - Printable Version

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+-- Thread: Apothecary chest (/showthread.php?tid=7339163)

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RE: Apothecary chest - Peter Tremblay - 04-25-2018

(04-25-2018, 12:21 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Thanks Peter. I'm watching your chest as well.

If you have not read my review of the Custom Planes, then you must now sit down and do so!

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasCustomPlanes1.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks,

I'll take a look.

Actually the chest is on hold for the summer.

I'm working on some infills right now.
I'm going to attempt my take on a Norris A6 and then maybe a jack and jointer.

RE: Apothecary chest - Belle City Woodworking - 04-25-2018

You have once again nailed it Derek! The choice of materials is spot on for the piece.

I truly enjoy your posts, and your craftsmanship is top shelf.

Those dovetails are fantastic! (insert an I am jealous of your hand tool skills here)
Wink

Thanks for posting,
John

RE: Apothecary chest - Big Dave - 04-26-2018

I do love watching your builds, Derek....
Yes

RE: Apothecary chest - rick4212 - 04-26-2018

Love the curved front. I think it will add a lot to the piece. Your build along posts are always well done.

Apothecary chest - part two - Derek Cohen - 04-26-2018

Wednesday was Anzac Day, a public holiday in Australia and New Zealand, and I had a few hours in the workshop to move along with the vertical partitions or dividers.

[Image: 8a.jpg]

The panels had been thicknessed a little oversize. They need to be brought down to their final thickness of 12mm.

The panels need to be flat. The high spots are marked ...

[Image: 10a.jpg]

... and planed away ....

[Image: 11a.jpg]

The base and the top of the cabinet is marked out for the stopped dados.

[Image: 12a.jpg]

The dados end 10mm from the lower edge. The upper section has a 12mm overhang to take into account. The ends are marked ..

[Image: 13a.jpg]

... and then drilled to a depth of 6mm, which is the depth of each dado.

The sides of the dado are scored deeply with a knife, and a chisel wall is made along the length. This is to guide a saw cut.

The kerf is created with an azebiki saw. This is the traditional Japanese saw for cutting sliding dovetail joints, trenches and slots for sliding Shoji screens.

[Image: 17a.jpg]

The panel is flipped around, and the kerf is deepened so that it runs the full length ...

[Image: 18-1a.jpg]

Now zip out the upper layers of waste with a slick or paring chisel ...

[Image: 19a.jpg]

Remove the remainder to depth with a router plane ...

[Image: 20a.jpg]

And we are done ...

[Image: 22a.jpg]

More after the weekend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

RE: Apothecary chest - part two - Timberwolf - 04-26-2018

(04-26-2018, 10:53 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Wednesday was Anzac Day, a public holiday in Australia and New Zealand, and I had a few hours in the workshop to move along with the vertical partitions or dividers.

The panels had been thicknessed a little oversize. They need to be brought down to their final thickness of 12mm.

The panels need to be flat. The high spots are marked ...

... and planed away ....

The base and the top of the cabinet is marked out for the stopped dados.

The dados end 10mm from the lower edge. The upper section has a 12mm overhang to take into account. The ends are marked ..

... and then drilled to a depth of 6mm, which is the depth of each dado.

The sides of the dado are scored deeply with a knife, and a chisel wall is made along the length. This is to guide a saw cut.

The kerf is created with an azebiki saw. This is the traditional Japanese saw for cutting sliding dovetail joints, trenches and slots for sliding Shoji screens.

The panel is flipped around, and the kerf is deepened so that it runs the full length ...

Now zip out the upper layers of waste with a slick or paring chisel ...

Remove the remainder to depth with a router plane ...

And we are done ...

More after the weekend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Outstanding work as usual Derek!!!!!!!

BTW..I remember the Anzacs in WWII !!!!!! Fearless troops !!!!!

“ANZAC” was the name given to a combined force of First Australian Imperial Force and New Zealand Army troops who landed on Turkey’s Gallipoli Peninsula at around dawn on Sunday, the 25th day of April, 1915, barely nine months after the outbreak of World War I.

RE: Apothecary chest - Arlin Eastman - 04-27-2018

I have never heard of an Apothecary Chest before. I guess I was wrong to assume that the rounded edges would be the top like a regular sea chest and that it might have dividers inside or a shelf for another box but not all the drawers.

I am going to have to google it.

RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 04-30-2018

We left off with a dovetailed carcase, which had been given stopped dados made with a saw, chisel and router plane. The vertical dividers were made, but yet to be installed. Chest on its side ...

[Image: A_zpsczdusqxq.jpg]

The dividers will be fitted, so ...

[Image: B_zps3vtgv1hd.jpg]

The dividers are slid in, and the section ahead of the stopped dado is marked with a knife ...

[Image: D_zpswoipgzkk.jpg]

.. or a cutting gauge ...

[Image: E_zpscyugpupp.jpg]

.. and then cut away (I prefer a Japanese dozuki for this cut and it is cleaner than off a Western saw) ...

[Image: F_zps7ztuylfl.jpg]

They need to be flush with the curved lower end of the chest (the sides dividers are yet to be shaped to the curve. That will be done later to avoid damage) ...

[Image: G_zps33dwljmr.jpg]

... while the upper section of the chest has a 12mm overhang ...

[Image: C_zpsuummkhfb.jpg]

Note that all measurements and marking is done from the lower end of the carcase/dividers. This is the reference end.

It is now time to add stopped dados to the dividers. The first step is to begin marking their positions. As before, this is completed with dividers ...

[Image: H_zpslbvplau4.jpg]

Each drawer is 100x100mm and the drawer blade/divider is 12mm ...

[Image: I_zpsj40jduai.jpg]

The dado lines are scored across the divider ...

[Image: J_zpszbnmfbjc.jpg]

The ruler has a non-slip underside made of 400 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper, a tip I got from Andrew Crawford ...

[Image: Q_zpsiufjz7dt.jpg]

The insides of the carcase are marked similarly ...

[Image: K_zpszg09s44p.jpg]

Finally all the stopped dados are marked. There are 40 in all - 10 in walnut and 30 in merbau. The merbau is an extremely hard and brittle wood. It was chosen as a secondary wood as it was cheap and will stand up to any wear from sliding drawers, unlike a soft wood like pine.

The dados are 3mm deep (as 12mm wide). With a 12mm thick panel, and 3mm from each side, there will be 6mm remaining. That is sufficient for structural integrity.

With 40 dados, I decided to use a power router, and built a simple guide ...

[Image: L_zps1gjnkiai.jpg]

The guide is a one-shot job for a 12mm dado. Just place the slot against the lines made earlier, and run the router until it hits the stop ...

[Image: M_zpstwgphfec.jpg]

RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 04-30-2018

This is too easy ...

[Image: N_zpswzq6p89s.jpg]

... and I become complacent, and cut against the wrong line! Fortunatley, this is a simple fix and will not be seen ..

[Image: O_zpssb9vdss3.jpg]

So, at the end of the day the chest is dado-ed to death. The horizontal drawer blades will be fitted next time. This is going to be an interesting time since they will curve to fit at the front.

[Image: P_zpsqojv42mm.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek

RE: Apothecary chest - Scoony - 04-30-2018

Looking great. And yeah, for routing a dado along the wrong side of the line, can't say that I have never done that. Nice save.