Breadboard Ends - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: Breadboard Ends (/showthread.php?tid=7343979) Pages:
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RE: Breadboard Ends - Elijah A. - 10-31-2018 I've had some time off work so there has been about an hour everyday when the kids are napping that I can still go down and make some shavings it is red oak. I want to do the breadboard ends for stability but I also want to do them for aesthetics. Thank you all for your suggestions! RE: Breadboard Ends - Hank Knight - 10-31-2018 If you don't get a nice, crisp shoulder joint, go back and undercut the tenon shoulder just a hair (technical term there - no more than a couple of degrees). Then the shoulder should meet perfectly. RE: Breadboard Ends - Derek Cohen - 10-31-2018 (10-29-2018, 04:56 PM)Elijah A. Wrote: Hey, I am building a table and I want to do breadboard ends by hand. I am planning to use a cross cut back saw to establish the edge and chisel out the waste cleaning up with a router plane. I do not own a shoulder plane or any type of rabbeting plane. Is it possible to clean up the 90 degree angle without a shoulder plane? I don't mind buying a tool but I'm open to ideas on how to clean up the 90 without owning a shoulder plane. Thx! Hi Eli You can also clean up the shoulder with a cutting gauge (such as a wheel gauge). This is a stopped rebate, with waste sawn on both sides ... Regards from Perth Derek RE: Breadboard Ends - hbmcc - 10-31-2018 (10-31-2018, 06:22 AM)Elijah A. Wrote: I've had some time off work so there has been about an hour everyday when the kids are napping that I can still go down and make some shavings Hah!! I was pretty busy the first year, or so, when the kid showed up. I think that was my most productive as a beaver. I didn't waste time playing designer. I don't work with oak--it's not local--but, yah, you need breadboards. RE: Breadboard Ends - Robert Hazelwood - 10-31-2018 A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane. If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages. Use a skewing motion with the chisel. Paring blocks are tedious but very effective. RE: Breadboard Ends - spowers - 11-04-2018 (10-31-2018, 04:11 PM)Robert Hazelwood Wrote: A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane. If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages. Use a skewing motion with the chisel. A shoulder plane is a pretty useful tool for a variety of tasks, not just shoulders. Whether used or new, you might want to invest in one. RE: Breadboard Ends - Skip J. - 11-05-2018 (10-31-2018, 04:11 PM)Robert Hazelwood Wrote: A long paring block, set accurately to gauge lines, would be the way to go if you don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane. If you have more than ~1/32" of material to remove, do it in stages. Use a skewing motion with the chisel. Hello Robert; Welcome to the forum!!!!!!! RE: Breadboard Ends - rwe2156 - 11-05-2018 A dado clean up bit or short pattern bit with a straight guide will do a good jot of cleaning up the shoulders. RE: Breadboard Ends - bandit571 - 11-05-2018 Find a Stanley #78...retract the nicker....it will do the entire job. IF you go across the grain, rotate the nicker down....it will cut a fine, 90 degree rebate....as long as you hold the plane correctly. I do have a wood bodied, Auburn Tool Co. No. 181....skewed rebate plane. But mainly, I just use either 78...or the Stanley 45.....surprised Derek isn't trying to sell the "latest, and greatest LV Combo plane" 78s are easy enough to find...and use.. [attachment=14184] Had to run this around the backside of a door's raised panel... [attachment=14185] YMMV |