(11-03-2018, 03:36 PM)jgourlay Wrote: Okay, here are some photos to make clear.  First, an overall view where you can see the gap.


The Gap is measured...about 1/4"



See the scribed line?  The thick (outside) part of the face that in this photo is 'above' the line is what I would have to plane off to fix this problem.  It's a LOT of material, and would leave that corner of the drawer structurally compromised.

If you look at scribed line, it goes off to the right, eventually trailing to the opposite corner.  I need to make a wedge this shape:  3" wide, 20" or so long, with this taper.  I'll glue that to the front, and it will make the drawer front parallel to the apron front.

The problem is making this wedge.

(11-03-2018, 12:50 PM)jgourlay Wrote: Gentlemen, after nearly cutting off my fingers on the bandsaw twice this morning, I'm calling for help.  I'm trying to fix a problem on a piece of furniture where "starting over" or fixing the 'real' problem is simply not an option.  The problem is that a corner of a table base is not square, and so when I install drawer slides and the inset drawer, the drawer face is not parallel to the apron--and it's very noticeable.  Fixing the 'not square' is totally out of the question, so let's not go there.

The drawer faces are actually "false" fronts.  So, unless you all have a better way (which I hope you do), what I intend to do is glue a wedge between the drawer front and the false face.  This wedge would then bring the false front parallel to the apron.

The width is just under 3".  Looking at the triangular face of the wedge, it's about 1/4" "rise" over 20" of "run".  My Starret protractor is measuring it at a little over 1 degree.  As you can imagine, both wide faces need to be smooth enough to glue.  I can get the bandsaw to cut a large angle, 15 or 20 or 45 degrees on a short piece no problem.  But my attempts to cut this wedge with such a shallow angle with a long length turned out to be both very dangerous and unsuccessful.  Note that my 'run' is longer than the length of the miter slot on the bandsaw an the wedge is wider than the height of a table saw blade.  Unsuccessful in that instead giving a wedge, it just gave a more or less straight piece with a wavy cut face.

What do you think I should do?  Maybe some super tricky way to use a thickness planer?

(11-04-2018, 04:52 PM)handi Wrote: Seeing the photos helps. 

I would either rack the drawer box or rebuild it out of square if needed. 
With the top on the table no one will ever notice the drawer out of square, but any jury fix to the drawer front or box (such as a wedge) will be visible each time the drawer is opened.