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RE: New in Sharpening? - Derek Cohen - 12-01-2018
(12-01-2018, 08:29 AM)Hank Knight Wrote: Derek, I'm interested in your experience with epoxy and UHMW. I've had mixed results with it. What kind of epoxy do you use? Do you do any prep work before applying the glue? (I rough up the UHMW with coarse sandpaper) How secure is the bond? Have you used epoxy to glue UHMW to wood? How well did it work?
TIA.
Hank
Hi Hank
The UHMW surface is pre-roughed up in that I cut up some chopping boards. With something like this, which has a lot of surface area plus is not under any stress loads, the 15-minute twin pack epoxy I use works very well. I have not experienced any lifting or separation issues.
Application is simply smearing (I think that is the technical term) and then using a spatula (a specialised tool) to achieve a uniform coating. Once the two parts are together, I place them on a flat surface (in my case the cast iron bed of my bandsaw), and then add a weight on top (a brick). The result is pretty flat.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: New in Sharpening? - wmickley - 12-02-2018
(12-01-2018, 05:49 PM)Ricky Wrote: Just curious about harsh abrasives decreasing durability?
I can understand that in theory a hollow grind can decrease it's durability versus a slightly convex grind. But that's a separate issue.
And I've heard diamond abrasives can give a "toothier" edge.
Not arguing, just curious.
A toothy edge is helpful for cutting hair or fabric because it grabs on the fabric. Some like a toothy edge for cutting meat or vegetables and they cut with a slight sawing motion. Wood is usually quite a bit harder than these materials. Having deep scratches provides places where the the edge can tear or bend. A smoother, more polished edge is stronger and more durable for this reason. An abrasive that is not so brash leaves very shallow scratches.
The hollow grind issue is somewhat different. A chisel acts as both a cutting tool and a wedge.
RE: New in Sharpening? - Ricky - 12-02-2018
(12-02-2018, 08:07 AM)wmickley Wrote: A toothy edge is helpful for cutting hair or fabric because it grabs on the fabric. Some like a toothy edge for cutting meat or vegetables and they cut with a slight sawing motion. Wood is usually quite a bit harder than these materials. Having deep scratches provides places where the the edge can tear or bend. A smoother, more polished edge is stronger and more durable for this reason. An abrasive that is not so brash leaves very shallow scratches.
The hollow grind issue is somewhat different. A chisel acts as both a cutting tool and a wedge.
Thanks for the explanation.
Question re: Diamond Laps for Sharpening - Howard Pollack - 12-02-2018
Those of you who use them, do you lubricate them and, if so, with what? Thanks. -Howard
RE: Question re: Diamond Laps for Sharpening - Timberwolf - 12-02-2018
(12-02-2018, 09:59 AM)Howard Pollack Wrote: Those of you who use them, do you lubricate them and, if so, with what? Thanks. -Howard
.................
I don't know who this question is directed to but I always use light oil {petroleum based} of any type to inhibit the swarf load on diamond hones or lap plates. If using them dry, I suppose you could use one of those crepe rubber blocks to keep the surface clean and free of swarf.
RE: New in Sharpening? - Mtobey - 12-03-2018
It sounds like I am not off the modern main highway- a few have gone horizontal, but, no surprise, diamonds are still best friends. It sometimes happens that I come upon a steel that does not take to waterstones and then out come those blessed oilstones. However, none of my oilstones, nor diamond plates have seen anything but water with a bit of Dawn dish detergent. While I have some smaller stones for afield, really all of the others are the 8 x 2 1/2-3" size including two precious Lilywhites. I am fairly likely to pass on quite nice and thick Shaptons- I am still sold on them. Besides, an 8000 shipped across the Pacific was the start of a fine friendship with Derek.
I think I heard a "chirp" about hollow vs. convex vs. flat bevel. I have never had one of my HG edges go South on me unless I hit some inclusion.I do use relatively steep main bevels-in the 30's and really put the detail on the final cutting bevel- still don't know if that leading edge is called a "micro" bevel or something else. I am still an arrogant SOB about my freehand results. Occasionally, I will whip out a Veritas Mk. II for shaping. I leave the barrel roller in it because as I roll, I can stop the rock.
And NO "ruler tricks !!"
It is so nice to hear from you, my old pals who taught me so much. My experience in life and lessons learned here allowed me to pay it forward in spades, teaching guitar builders. They owe you gents a good bit. An oddity, I sent an LN rabbet block to an Australian Les Paul builder who was living in Japan, Tokyo, teaching English and Literature. It had that strange same effect as that 8000.
PS; I stoutly deny any connection between my spelling and sipping "VO" neat. Why not Crown Rpyal? Well, I have enough purple velvet-like bags.
I'll hang around more if you will let me, but I am still a pseudo Hunter Thompson- so newer guys be warned. You could find yourself on a prepaid flight to an island in the Carribean for a duel with 1911's (Todd H.) I guess he had a fear of flying. (in the past I could spell anything-that appears to have gone to H=== !)
Thanks again to all.
RE: New in Sharpening? - Skip J. - 12-04-2018
(12-03-2018, 05:28 PM)Mtobey Wrote: I'll hang around more if you will let me, but I am still a pseudo Hunter Thompson- so newer guys be warned. You could find yourself on a prepaid flight to an island in the Carribean for a duel with 1911's (Todd H.) I guess he had a fear of flying. (in the past I could spell anything-that appears to have gone to H=== !)
Thanks again to all.
You're welcome here anytime, the old days have not completely gone.... not many of us left anymore...