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miters on small parts - Printable Version

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RE: miters on small parts - KyleD - 07-10-2021

I assume you are mitering the edges of the inserts. I would build a small table saw sled to work with the blade tipped over at 45.
Like this  64ef89898e2185446822d4f47df5ad5a.jpg
You can set up a stop or just sneak up on a fit. The half used rubber end of a pencil is usually enough to hold onto the parts as you cut them but a simple lever clamp can be screwed into the base of the sled as well.

RE: miters on small parts - jcclark - 07-10-2021

The only way I can get it the way I want is to cut it oversize and
then sand it to size using a sled on my table saw equipped
with a sanding disk.
I do all my cabinet door miters that way too, you can adjust
the sled angle and the table saw angle to get it perfect, everytime.

RE: miters on small parts - ez-duzit - 07-10-2021

For my small projects, like building model airplanes, I have an ancient Sears tilt-table saw that I've setup with a 4" thin-kerf, 40-tooth, carbide blade. It is extremely heavy and precise.

[Image: sears-saw-1.jpg]
[Image: sears-saw-2.jpg]
[Image: sears-saw-3.jpg]
[Image: sears-saw-4.jpg]

RE: miters on small parts - JohnnyEgo - 07-10-2021

I'll give you three ways I do/have done it, all of which have been mentioned already in one way or the other.

1. I have a 45 degree sled (aka a Donkey's Ear) for my saw:
[Image: tbox23.JPG]

2. I have a 45 degree ramp for my miter saw and shooting board, as demonstrated by my son:
[Image: tbox20.JPG]

3. I have done it on the router table, usually with a lock miter bit. When I do, I use a piece of double sided carpet tape to stick a straight piece of MDF square and flush with the surface I am cutting. That way I can run the router bit right up to the pointy, pointy end of the 45 and still have plenty of meat against the fence.
[Image: vindesk41.JPG]

Of the three methods, I usually prefer just doing it with the Donkey's Ear and miter plane for any material less than a quarter inch thick.