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+-- Thread: Raised panel door (/showthread.php?tid=7369708)
RE: Raised panel door - FS7 - 07-01-2022
If your bits don't have bearings then they're missing them. The bearing rides on the tongue regardless of whether it's a backcutter bit or not. For a backcutter, this means the bearing is in the middle of the cutter stack. A regular raised panel bit will have a top bearing.
I can't imagine a raised panel bit being even remotely safe without a bearing unless I'm just missing something.
RE: Raised panel door - Gregor1 - 07-01-2022
There is a steel collar, that's it. I guess I need to get this dvd to play, or maybe contact Freud if I can.[attachment=43123]
RE: Raised panel door - FS7 - 07-01-2022
I did some investigating. Freud does this, but apparently only them. All others seem to have bearings. But you'll notice the carbide doesn't go all the way to the shank, so if you move the fence and try to cut all the way back it will almost certainly burn. It will give you a slightly longer tongue too, which would let you trim the burned part (which would be hidden anyway). I also think this would make it very difficult to do arched doors.
I'm not sure why Freud does this, but it means that you'd have to rely on the fence and not the bearing. I would probably worry about burning and binding on the shank, especially with a large bit like that.
RE: Raised panel door - MstrCarpenter - 07-01-2022
I don't see how that cutter could do arched panels. The center is not a "rub collar" either. The width of cut is determined by the fence, and the maximum width of cut is the length of the cutter. You can have a shadow line on the face of your panel if desired; the depth of that is determined by the cutter height relative to the table. Now you can use the washers to adjust the width of the tongue to match your stile and rail set. The arrangement shown in your picture is the thinnest it will get.
RE: Raised panel door - BobW - 07-02-2022
(07-01-2022, 07:05 PM)Gregor1 Wrote: There is a steel collar, that's it. I guess I need to get this dvd to play, or maybe contact Freud if I can.
I have Freud raised panel bits with backcutters in 3 profiles. They work just fine without a bearing. I make the cuts in three passes, and on the final pass, I line the fence up with the hub, shaft, or whatever you want to call it...maybe Freud calls it a bearing (the thing between the profile cutter and the backcutter), with a metal straight edge. Just try it on scrap, you'll get it!
RE: Raised panel door - Stwood_ - 07-02-2022
I always made my panels 5/8 when using 3/4 frames.
RE: Raised panel door - Gregor1 - 07-02-2022
Another newbie question. I was talking to a long time wood worker today. He doesn't do anything anymore because of health concerns. He told me when gluing up panels for doors, or whatever, he never glued up anything wider than about 3 1/2". Even if he had some nice 8 -10" wide material, he would rip it down, and glue it back together. Is this a good practice? Is it necessary? When you glue it back together, do you flip every other board? Thanks Greg
RE: Raised panel door - Stwood_ - 07-02-2022
Just depends on the board. If it's 10" and sits there and cups a bit, better to rip and flip.
Otherwise, use it as is.
I never liked the mismatch's in the panels when having multiple boards glued up.
RE: Raised panel door - FS7 - 07-02-2022
I have never done that with panels. One of my biggest pet peeves having to do with professional shops is how they just disregard grain and just make panels our of whatever they have. Then all drawer fronts and panels are mismatched and constructed of random boards. All about economy, not style.
When possible or practical, I like to use single boards. Cupping has never been a problem. Also, I've used two boards of different widths and grain patterns before. They can be aligned for symmetry and it becomes a design feature.
RE: Raised panel door - kurt18947 - 07-02-2022
(07-01-2022, 10:09 PM)FS7 Wrote: I did some investigating. Freud does this, but apparently only them. All others seem to have bearings. But you'll notice the carbide doesn't go all the way to the shank, so if you move the fence and try to cut all the way back it will almost certainly burn. It will give you a slightly longer tongue too, which would let you trim the burned part (which would be hidden anyway). I also think this would make it very difficult to do arched doors.
I'm not sure why Freud does this, but it means that you'd have to rely on the fence and not the bearing. I would probably worry about burning and binding on the shank, especially with a large bit like that.
I'd be curious about the arched doors too. ACtually, can you do arched doors with a back cutter? Without the back cutter you could start with the panel raiser barely above the table and make multiple passes raising it each pass. That wouldn't work with a back cutter. I guess you could remove the back cutter and put some sort of spacer in its place. I've never done arched panels or used a panel raiser with a back cutter so I'm pretty ignorant.
Edit: I checked Freud's panel raisers without the back cutter. Those have bearings on top. I guess if I were going to do arched doors I'd get the panel raiser without the back cutter.