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+-- Thread: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 (/showthread.php?tid=7376137)
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-02-2024
Ok...prep involves just a refresh of any edge tool being used....so far, it has been the "Marking Knife" needing a trip over the stones. Saws were already sharp, just needing a rub above the tooth line with a candle. Squares have been checked...found one a bit too worn from decades of a knife use. Points on Marking Gauges were checked.
Ser Uncle Charles decided to wake me up this morning..cramping up the big toe on the Right Foot, and cramping up most of the left hand.
Once I get those "walked off"...I think a bit of shop time will be in order, as I do have Laundry Detail, today..
Regular Mortise & Tenon....will be doing the Tenon first, then match the Mortise to it...will see how today goes along..
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-02-2024
Alrighty...lay out a few tools..
[attachment=51668]
Lay out for the Tenon, first..
[attachment=51669]
using the Stanley No. 77 Mortise Gauge..then the shoulder cuts..
[attachment=51670]
And the Jackson Backsaw to do the cross cuts..
Waste can now either be split off, IF the grain will allow...if not?
[attachment=51671]
Disston No.68, filed Rip can do the job...wide chisel and a square...to check for any high spots..
[attachment=51672]
Pare as needed...but, don't get carried away, looking for a glass smooth surface...one more detail..
[attachment=51673]
Saw these 2 off..and..
[attachment=51674]
Tenon is done.
Stay tuned for the Mortise part..
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-02-2024
So...need a Mortise chopped...first need it laid out..
[attachment=51675]
With the help of the #77..as I left it set up...key will be to be inside the lay out lines....Tenon helps locate where to start and stop the Mortise..
1/4" chisel, that doesn't mind getting hit with a mallet..
[attachment=51676]
And I set up my Mortising Jig...because..the jaws have become so worn from use in the bench vise..it will not hold a part being chopped into..
3 whacks on the chisel, pop the waste,repeat until I reach just short of the stop line, rotate the chisel and THEN chop STRAIGHT down...goal is to dig about 1/8" at a time, until I reach the 1" depth required..8 trips...clean the side walls now and then..check with the tenon as I go..
[attachment=51677]
Yes, it is indeed ugly in there, but...I find that the Glue likes it that way...
Dry fit..
[attachment=51678]
There IS a small chip-out on the Tenon piece...otherwise..no gaps...hard to tell where one begins and the other stops?
Check with the square...
[attachment=51679]
Not quite an "A+" , Grade wise...maybe an "A"?
Have 2 pieces cut for Joint #10...
[attachment=51680]
Which will be tomorrow's shoptime...a Through Mortise & Tenon Joint..
Stay tuned...
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-05-2024
I suppose I should up date this, sometime today?
Kind of laid up, right now....we'll see...
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-05-2024
Joint#10: Through Mortise & Tenon..
Select a few tools to use...
[attachment=51698]
Do a bit of lay out work..
[attachment=51699]
Mortise first, this time around...choose a chisel..
[attachment=51700]
The 3/16" because it will fit inside the lines, where as the 1/4" wide one will not..
Chop down about half way..
[attachment=51701]
Then turn the part over, and finish chopping....might have to scoot the part to the right a bit, to allow chips a way out...saves trying to lift the chips all the way out the top..
Then stand the mortise half of the joint up..and a wide chisel to pare the insides....
[attachment=51702]
A rip saw and a cross cut saw to remove most of the waste from the tenon...dry fit to see where things need pared..
[attachment=51703]
This took a mallet to assemble, but..
[attachment=51704]
Check for square, and for gaps...
[attachment=51705]
There were some, but, only the glue would see them...
Grade?
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-05-2024
Wood Joint #11: Dado
Needed to cut 2 more blanks...
[attachment=51706]
And set one aside..for now....lay out work...
And knife inside the lines.
[attachment=51707]
Paul Sellers like to do what he calls a knife wall, to help guide the saw..so...
[attachment=51708]
A wide chisel, cut in from the waste side of the line...MAYBE 2 cuts...so a "Proper" joinery saw can be guided along..
[attachment=51709]
Remember to stop just short of the line..
[attachment=51710]
Then, Sellers uses this to remove the waste...
[attachment=51711]
Takes a few trips, coming in from both directions..then, you can either pare it flat with a chisel..
[attachment=51712]
Or...
[attachment=51713]
Set the cutter on the Stanley router plane to final depth...and pare things flat...
Test fit..
[attachment=51714]
Was very tight...hammer tight, in fact....so, a trick the Japanese use...I took the hammer to the fat area...pounded it like a tough steak, and then it fit in place,,fit even better once the crumb was brushed out..
Grade?
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-06-2024
Worksheet No. 5 has arrived..
[attachment=51716]
And might need one or 2 of these..
[attachment=51717]
Thinking it MIGHT use this one?
[attachment=51718]
Since the angle of the dangle seems to have already been set...
1:6 or..1:7 for dovetails in Pine?
Stay tuned...
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-07-2024
Been a LONG time since I did one of these joints, with strictly hand tools..and boy, did it show....
Since I always get yelled at for doing Pins first..decided to at least try tails first.
[attachment=51722]
Marking gauge to form the 1/2" tails..then that bevel gauge and I had a "session"
[attachment=51723]
Trying to agree on which angle looked best....then a saw got involved..
[attachment=51724]
Still not that enthused about them..but..knife to cut the layout lines..was too fat..darkened with a pencil so I could at least see where to cut...
[attachment=51725]
Without cutting into the baselines...let the chisels do that..but, how to get back into the corners where a saw failed to go?
[attachment=51726]
There are 2 kinds of Putty Knives..flexy, and stiff..both were made by Red Devil..this is the "Stiff" bladed one...you do NOT sharpen the edges..and you only need to flatten the blade so that it matches the saw's kerf....then use a hammer to drive this down to the baselines, following the kerfs....aka Kerf Chisel..
Then a selection of chisels to excavate the waste out...and TRY to get the "floor" flat...dry fit?
[attachment=51727]
Some of those "gaps" are pencil lines, and some are not...and yet I needed a mallet to assemble this joint? Hmmm
[attachment=51728]
Well, at least the corner came out square.
Grade? I gave it a "C-"....
Next up?
[attachment=51729]
Joint #13 calls for through dovetails..to make this back corner of the "Drawer"
Will see how THIS turns out..
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-07-2024
BTW: Joint #14 is to be a Box Joint...have not decided on width of the "Fingers"..yet....will depend on what size/width of chisel I will use..we'll see...
Stay tuned...
RE: Shop Class, Fall of 1968 - bandit571 - 07-07-2024
Wood Joint No. 13: Through Dovetail Joint
Done Tails first, too...will see IF I do these better than the last batch..Laid out..
[attachment=51731]
Make sure to mark the waste...saw work..
[attachment=51732]
Chop the waste out with a couple chisels....
[attachment=51733]
Once the waste is gone, lay the tails down onto the pin board's end..a SHARP No. 2 pencil to trace around the tails..
[attachment=51734]
Saw the Pins, on the waste side of the pencil lines...and try to LEAVE the lines..
Then more chisel work to remove the waste...and try a dry fit..
[attachment=51735]
Nice fit, when you need a Mallet to dry fit...
[attachment=51736]
Just ONE Gap? Now, is this thing square?
[attachment=51737]
Looks like it...
[attachment=51738]
Hmmm..Grade? Thinking MAYBE a "B+", due to that gap...?
Tomorrow's parts..
[attachment=51739]
Ready to make a Box Joint? Debate as to what width the "fingers" will be....Imperial? Metric?
Stay tuned...