+- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Fire rated door (/showthread.php?tid=7325045)
RE: Fire rated door - Bob10 - 11-15-2016
(11-14-2016, 10:09 PM)CanoeBoy Wrote: Thanks for all the good information ! Am I understanding correctly that the spring hinges can't be swapped out for normal hinges. Not a deal breaker, but I do tend to carry a lot of things into the house at time and the rebel in me might want to do some modification.
Mike
The sprung hinges can be swapped out and your insurance won't be an issue, they build in home owners doing things incorrectly and things wearing out into the premiums
RE: Fire rated door - JGrout - 11-15-2016
yes I agree one should really stop using internet resources for information that is generally available to anyone and given freely
of course we would have no call to have forums like this at your disposal we could just all say
go somewhere else and get your information
RE: Fire rated door - K. L. McReynolds - 11-15-2016
"Grout thinks he is all knowing, like Moses coming down from the burning bush that did not get consumed."
Um, Joe does make his living building doors.
Seems prudent to me to learn who you are talking to here before you decide whether they know something.
RE: Fire rated door - K. L. McReynolds - 11-15-2016
Aside from the entire codes discussion, I replaced our garage to house door a couple months ago. The old door was a hollow core inswing(into the house) model(installed when the house was built in 1965). Had regular 4" hinges and a lever action latch assembly.
I replaced it with a solid wood core door and built the frame from scratch. And made it an outswing action(into the garage).
Have no idea what the fire rating is, but a solid wood door is a heck of a lot better than a hollow core type.
RE: Fire rated door - CanoeBoy - 11-15-2016
If I were to compare apple to oranges which type of door would have the best insulating properties. I just figured a FR door would kill 2 birds with one stone. If 20 minutes meant the possibility of saving a life then I would certainly go that route. The price difference of doors is minimal, but I also want a door that doesn't feel like an ice cube in the winter on the inside.
Mike
RE: Fire rated door - JGrout - 11-15-2016
Mike it should not feel like an ice cube on the inside, cool to the touch yes, steel doors are filled with foam for some insulating ability.
a 90 minute door has less foam and more mineral compound (gypsum generally) inside and is a lot heavier obviously
RE: Fire rated door - KC - 11-16-2016
(11-13-2016, 09:29 PM)MikeBob Wrote: Figure out where the door is out of square with the frame. Pop the hing pins and take off the door. Plane/sand to adjust. If you cant pop the hinge pins un screw the hinges to take off the door. I mean it is that simple!!!
First check the hinge screws are tight both on the door and frame side. I maybe just that simple.
Can't get the hinge pins out. Well, I can get ONE of them out. I shimmed behind one of the hinges, and did some sanding on the other end to make it better.... but it's still not right.
RE: Fire rated door - JGrout - 11-16-2016
After today's weirdness let me try again to answer your questions
first off you cannot remove the pins in spring hinges so removing the door is a matter of removing the screws to take the door down. Make your adjustments and rehang the door
If you were not given the tension pins for the spring hinges now is the time to replace them with new ones The borg's carry replacements so you should have access to them relatively easily
I know you found instructions for tensioning the hinge but here a link to both style of spring hinge
Joe
RE: Fire rated door - museumguy - 11-17-2016
I was hoping someone would post how to take the pins out (or install them if necessary), if not, I was going to try. These hinges do wear out over time, maybe now is the time to replace them.
RE: Fire rated door - JGrout - 11-17-2016
On the both styles if the pin is not badly bent you can put a rare earth magnet up twist the pin to loosen it slightly and it should come out.
If it is bent ( happens if the closer is over tensioned and many are) the challenge is mush harder. So for the ones using a longer rod instead of a allen wrench that have a slot instead of a hole and sometimes you can grab the pin with a pair of needle nose pliers. I use a small allen wrench to turn the tensioner because the one that comes with the hinge is always gone