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+-- Thread: Table saw purchasing advice (/showthread.php?tid=7326668)
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - daddo - 01-04-2017
Here's a real deal on a vintage machine.
I guess you open the door, throw the lumber in, set the dial, turn it on, open the door and your lumber is cut and joined all in one operation.
http://austin.craigslist.org/tls/5924998420.html
Here's one JUST LIKE NEW!
http://austin.craigslist.org/tls/5882117422.html
___________________________________________________________
But seriously;
I'd bite on this one- make deal. http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/tls/5939007264.html
I could save this Powermatic from further destruction- make a deal! http://austin.craigslist.org/tls/5939187753.html
Just examples.
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - s9plus20 - 01-04-2017
(01-04-2017, 01:09 PM)knotscott Wrote: Since you've listed both portable jobsite saws and a stationary saw, I'd spend some time learning about the different types and their pros and cons. If you don't need to move the saw from location to location, a full size cast iron belt drive saw with an induction motor usually trumps a small plastic/aluminum saw with a direct drive universal motor. Here's some light reading that might help. The ABCs of Table Saws
An excellent article!
As suggested by the article any of the these 3 would be great choices; "entry level full size saws like the Ridgid R4512, Delta 36-725, or Craftsman 21833"
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - Bob10 - 01-04-2017
Lot of unknowns here as we don't know the location nor the electrical connections available where he is.
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - dg152 - 01-04-2017
Jarvis, the type of saw you buy depends greatly on what you want to do with it. If you're going out to job sites then a job site saw like what you're looking at is probably ideal. But, if your work is going to be in the shop you have a much broader range of choices.
I spent many years making saw dust with a Craftsman table saw. It had a cast iron top (very stable and heavy) and a 1-1/2 hp motor. These contractor style saws work very well. The downside is that they don't have a lot of power. Pushing oak, cherry or other hardwoods through sometimes slowed down the blade. It was easy to end up with burned edges. I replaced the original fence with an upgraded fence. The other thing you may want to consider is replacing the drive belt with one of those link belts to make things run smoother. Having said that, as others have pointed out you can usually buy these on craigslist for a couple of hundred bucks or so. And, when you go to sell it you'll usually get your money back.
You mentioned a budget of around $600. At that price you may want to consider a used cabinet saw. They appear on craigslist often. They are usually more powerful - 3 hp - and require 220 volts. It will go through the hardest of woods with barely a whimper. Cabinet saws are heavier and tend to be more accurate. Brand names to look for are Grizzly, Jet, Delta, etc. Depending on what you want to do, the table saw could be one of the most important tools in your shop. Put in your time researching reading magazines and books. You won't regret saving your $$ and buying a quality machine.
Several years ago I moved from a Sears Craftsman saw to a Jet cabinet I saw on craigslist. It's been a great machine on which I've made many projects. Are there better saws? Maybe. But for what I do, it works for me.
And above all else, be sure to follow your Aunt Sue's advice!
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - Tapper - 01-04-2017
(01-03-2017, 10:49 PM)Bill Lyman Wrote: 10 years ago when I retired, I was in the same position as you. I got great advice from a life-time wood worker. As long as you do not already have a table saw, do your research and buy a SawStop. You keep you fingers and you have the best in quality and performance.
Strongly support this recommendation! Take out a small short-term loan if necessary (you'll never regret it!).
Doug
SS PCS driver
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - daddo - 01-04-2017
(01-04-2017, 07:01 PM)Tapper Wrote: Strongly support this recommendation! Take out a small short-term loan if necessary (you'll never regret it!).
Doug
SS PCS driver
I would argue that not everyone can afford the cost of that saw (basic contractors at about $1,700.00), but being that cost is relative, I think I would lose the discussion.
I couldn't even argue the quality.
I do think the offer of 12 months no interest I have seen a great deal.
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - JGrout - 01-04-2017
you would only lose to a vocal minority
still counting to 10 here without using toes
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - JarvisD - 01-04-2017
Well...Aunt Sue was definitely right. Post here and you will get lots of response and advice! I'm going to try to answer all of the questions that came up in the responses.
My location (which apparently can't be set in the forum settings any more) is North Central PA. I'm between Williamsport and Lock Haven.
I was originally looking at the jobsite saws because I planned to do most of my cutting outside my basement b/c of dust. However...over Christmas my father-in-law who doesn't do much woodworking any more offered to give me his Grizzly dust collector that has been sitting in a corner of his garage for a few years. He took it out of his old woodshop and never hooked it up again. Since I now have a dust collector, that shifted my thinking to considering a cabinet or hybrid saw.
RE: electrical hookups. I am likely looking at 120 volt saws. I will be running a 220 circuit for a newly acquired dust collector. I'm assuming that I can't run both the saw and the dust collector off of the same 220 circuit...although if that isn't correct, let me know. Don't have room in the breaker box for running two 220 lines...at least not without getting creative.
I will be using it in my basement (walkout entry with room to move around). Portability isn't a requirement, but it's also not a downside if I can build a solid cabinet/wings around the saw for when I'm using it in my basement.
What I will be using it for is probably a fairly wide range. I did built-in seating/shelves in my mud room last year from mahogany that my father-in-law gave me. (Which was stressful b/c he rough cut it before I knew he was bringing it. I had to plan VERY carefully. One bad cut and the whole project would have been in danger. My leftover scraps fit in a shoe box when I was done.) I built a frame around a large piece of leaded glass last month as a gift. I know that a mantle with bookshelves and a built-in dresser in my closet are on the docket for this year. So...wide range of things that are currently on the docket...both big and small.
I did look at Grizzly, but all of the Grizzly models were out of my price comfort zone at this point. Same for SawStop. That would be nice, but I simply can't go that high right now.
When I originally looked at the Delta, I liked the cast iron top, the fence and guide were very solid. Adjustments seemed very precise. I wasn't impressed with the dust collection connection. It seemed flimsy compared to the rest of the saw. Overall it seemed to be more solid than the DeWalt or Bosch that I linked to. However...if quality and/or support are problematic, then that is not to be overlooked. I'm curious if anyone has personal experience (good or bad) with Delta in the last couple of years (since I know there was a period when they went downhill...and that they went through an ownership change six years ago).
First glance at the Ridgid was an eye opener. I liked what I saw in the pictures, and I've been intrigued by the lifetime warranty from the first time I saw it a couple of years ago. My closest Home Depot is an hour away in State College, but I may have to make the drive to take a look at that.
I appreciate all the feedback. I'm still in the research phase right now...currently putting money in my saw fund.
I can get by for now by continuing to borrow my father-in-law's DeWalt, but this is very helpful to gain knowledge of what I am looking for.And yes, whatever I end up buying, I will definitely be listening very closely to Aunt Sue (MsNomer)!
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - daddo - 01-04-2017
Things to look at in a warranty or lifetime warranty that may make it less appealing.
The part may be covered but- Do they just send you the part, or do you need to load and take the saw to a repairing dealer who may be many miles away?
Do you have to ship the saw to a repair shop? Is shipping covered?
Will the repairman come to your shop? What is the fee? Is it covered?
Is labor covered at all? This may cost much more than the part.
How much is a $35 part going to end up costing you after shipping or labor or down time?
Will the part become obsolete or discontinued in a few years leaving the only option to buy another saw? Will they pro-rate the cost of your new saw? How much?
Some warranty limits remind me of a parachute with a lifetime warranty.
RE: Table saw purchasing advice - JGrout - 01-04-2017
I am going to as brutally honest as I can
Skip the Delta I do not care how nice it looks
the way things shook out when the present owners took over I would not give them a penny
when companies dump inventories of replacement parts for quality machines so the best you can hope for is to find things on the secondary market I have no desire to support any machine they presently make
AFAIC recent history will hold true build em cheap stop supporting them in a year or three so you are forced to purchase all over again