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+-- Thread: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? (/showthread.php?tid=7368519)
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - arnman - 04-09-2022
I have a few Dubby sleds (somehow I stumbled upon them). I really like them. I use one of the Left side sleds for wider panels up to 24 inches, but I use it on the right side of the blade turned around - so the fence is on the leading edge, like mentioned upthread. That method works really well. The problem (if you don't have multiple sleds) - if the distance from miter slot to blade is different on both sides, you would trim the sled when using it on the narrower side.
Also, I have made a few jigs that I glued a stop block on the bottom side of the wood runner - the stop block catches the front edge of the table, so the sled does not travel too far and expose the blade behind the fence. It works great, but the miter bar could become fairly long.
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - Rob Young - 04-09-2022
(04-08-2022, 07:40 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Sure, a drawing would be much appreciated. Thanks. John
Just grabbed screen shot of the shooting board from the other thread. But I imagine the sled to be similar, but without the tracks on the side for the plane.
Instead of seeing it as rotated 180*, pretend it has two sets of adjustment features CNC'd in so you can move the fence to the trailing edge so wider stock is better supported on entry to the saw. And you get to stay on the left side of the blade and maintain the alignment and zero-clearance benefit of the sled. All the while using the same runner that you've also adjusted for the right fit to the slot.
Speaking of which, if you do an adjustable runner, add access holes so it can be adjusted with the sled in-place on the saw.
[attachment=41546]
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - jteneyck - 04-09-2022
(04-09-2022, 11:32 AM)Rob Young Wrote: Just grabbed screen shot of the shooting board from the other thread. But I imagine the sled to be similar, but without the tracks on the side for the plane.
Instead of seeing it as rotated 180*, pretend it has two sets of adjustment features CNC'd in so you can move the fence to the trailing edge so wider stock is better supported on entry to the saw. And you get to stay on the left side of the blade and maintain the alignment and zero-clearance benefit of the sled. All the while using the same runner that you've also adjusted for the right fit to the slot.
Speaking of which, if you do an adjustable runner, add access holes so it can be adjusted with the sled in-place on the saw.
Thanks Rob. A picture is worth a thousand words, especially for me. Got it. And I really like the top adjustment idea for the runner.
John
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - Gregor1 - 04-21-2022
Being a person of limited means, I built my own sled. It seems to work quite well, but I wasn't happy with the way it slid across the table. It wasn't as effortless as I had hoped. Then again, I do not have a high dollar table saw with a glass smooth surface on it. I glued 4, 3/8" wide strips of 1/16 plexiglass to the bottom. Now I think a good wind would blow it across.
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - Petertaylor - 05-11-2022
Hello John. Will your sled will be available soon? Or is it just something you are wondering about?
Peter
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - jteneyck - 05-11-2022
(05-11-2022, 01:40 PM)Petertaylor Wrote: Hello John. Will your sled will be available soon? Or is it just something you are wondering about?
Peter
Hi Peter. No, not for at least several months. I'm still collecting ideas at this point.
John
RE: Miter Sled - Features Important to You? - Bob10 - 05-14-2022
(04-09-2022, 09:54 AM)arnman Wrote: I have a few Dubby sleds (somehow I stumbled upon them). I really like them. I use one of the Left side sleds for wider panels up to 24 inches, but I use it on the right side of the blade turned around - so the fence is on the leading edge, like mentioned upthread. That method works really well. The problem (if you don't have multiple sleds) - if the distance from miter slot to blade is different on both sides, you would trim the sled when using it on the narrower side.
Also, I have made a few jigs that I glued a stop block on the bottom side of the wood runner - the stop block catches the front edge of the table, so the sled does not travel too far and expose the blade behind the fence. It works great, but the miter bar could become fairly long.
Funny I have a Dubby that I bought probably 20 years ago. I had a Craftsman cast iron saw at the time I kept switching from one to another and somehow it never got used I mean never. I don't even think it fits on the saws I have now. I will have to dig it out and check. NOS dubby
