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RE: Workbench - jteneyck - 04-24-2024

(04-24-2024, 06:29 AM)titanxt Wrote: One thing to point out for my use, and this does not apply to everyone, just my opinion. One thing about a tail vice is it can limit using the end of the bench for cabinet carcasses and anything you want to place over the end of the bench and clamp. Numerous times I have slide large drawers and other similar shaped items over the end of the bench and having an tail vice crank there would have prevented it, or at least made it difficult.

Again, I gave installing a tail vice some serious thought, but I am glad, for my needs, that I did not install one. With a few other simple clamping options, I no longer need one.

One additional thought, I am not sure I could go back to using a bench that does not have legs that are flush with the edge of the top. I have clamped frames and other pieces to the leg to keep them from racking and to hold them a bit more securely. Not always necessary, but a great feature when you have it.

Those are really good points.  I often have wished I had added a front leg on the right leg assembly with it flush with the bench top.  The downside, however, is that it gets in the way of your feet sometimes.  The issue with holding drawers isn't really a problem with the tail vice.  I use the tail vice to clamp a board 3/4" higher than the bench and that sticks out the depth of the drawer.  Then I clamp a 3/4" L shaped piece of plywood along the front edge of the bench, such that one leg is inside the other side of the drawer.  It provides a custom fit for any drawer and keeps it from sliding.  A shim under the closest position of the deadman also can be used to support the bottom side of the drawer at the bottom.  
There are other ways to do it, too.  We work with what we have and each has their advantage/disadvantage.  I really like the tail vice, for example, in being able to hold long parts, even resting them on the floor.  It's a person to build though, I'll say that, and it sticks out a lot.  For cramped quarters and maximum useable bench top, the wagon vice makes a lot of sense.  

John


RE: Workbench - jteneyck - 04-24-2024

And just for fun, photos I took this morning.  The ugly bench:


[Image: AP1GczOGohOUA1T6ifspFTNitaIJloTV0LCzByYv...authuser=1]

And the Euro bench:

[Image: AP1GczM9cH1klCzYXtY4UKx-upij7iqLD2qkHx8e...authuser=1]

John


RE: Workbench - Tapper - 04-24-2024

Thanks for the pics, John. Looks like you have the best of all worlds - two large benches. Seems like there is NEVER enough tabletop space in my shop! Always looking for a place to "sit" something. 
Yes

Doug


RE: Workbench - Stwood_ - 04-24-2024

Any flat surface............


RE: Workbench - Hank Knight - 04-26-2024

Tapper, I'm late to the party, as usual. I have a couple of suggestions and responses to your questions.
I built my bench 20 years ago. It is my own design that I came up with after much study and thought. I can't think of anything I would change if I were to build a new one. It has served me well.
My shop is small and crowded. I was intimidated by the thought of a massive glue-up and surfacing of a large bench top in my limited space. I decided to order a 24" X 3" X 72" commercial maple lamination from Bally Block Company. (https://butcherblock.com) They will make to your specifications and offer lots of wood and finish choices (I ordered mine unfinished) up to 6" thick. I fabricated 4" thick dog hole strips and glued them on each side of the 3" thick lamination and morticed end caps on each end.

[Image: 49506914757_be10e05e1b.jpg]DSC_0005BE by Hank Knight, on Flickr

The made-to-order lamination was fairly expensive, but not crazy expensive, and it saved me a ton of work. It was dead flat, and flushing the dog hole strips after they were glued on was easy.
I had a pair of heavy steel traditional square dogs. It was an easy task to cut square dog holes when I fabricated the dog hole strips. I have a row of square dog holes along both edges of my bench. Later I added two rows of round dog holes spaced so I can reach almost the entire surface of my bench with holdfasts.
I like both the round and the square dogs. I occasionally use round dogs, but I more often use the round dog holes for holdfasts and other accessories, including an articulated arm lamp that i rigged up that I can move anywhere it's needed on my bench top. Lee Valley has lots of handy bench accessories that are secured in round dog holes.
My top overhangs the base by 4" on each side. I have a Record 52 1/2 quick release vise for my face vise. I let the rear chop into the bench top so it is flush with the edge of the top. I much prefer this arrangement to having the entire vise stand proud of the top. It serves much the same purpose as having the top flush with the legs.
I made a deadman from a piece of 8/4 X 4" oak. It rests on the floor and is secured to the bench top with a sliding tongue that slips into any of the square dog holes on the edge of the bench top. It is very stable. I have planed some large, heavy panels with it. One of it's best features is that, when it's not in use, I can move it to the end of my bench out of the way so it boesn't block the drawers in the tool cabinet under the bench top.
My end vise is a Lee Valley twin screw vise. I have a love-hate relationship with it. It works just fine as a tail vise to secure workpieces to the bench top with dogs. But the design leaves somethiung to be desired. Its machanism slips when I crank down on it hard, so it is difficult to keep the jaws parallel. I have thought frequently about replacing it but it has uses that would be hard to replicate with a different kind of vise. I use it often to clamp large items to the end of my bench and it's convenient to secure short boards for edge planing.

[Image: 49842376322_0f408e7359_z.jpg]B77C5774-8423-42D2-ABC7-5294B4661D5D_1_105_c by Hank Knight, on Flickr

[Image: 42594520602_b6965edd72_k.jpg]IMG_3927 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

Finally, when I fabricated the dog hole strips, I drilled a row of 5/'8" holes in them for round dogs and other appliances. I embedded several large T slot nuts behind several of the holes to accept 1/2" threaded studs. I can insert the studs into the holes, screw them into the imbeded nuts and secure a vise chop to clamp wide (up to 30") panels to the front edge of my bench. I have found this to be occasionally useful, but I think an auxillary vise that riases the work above the bench top is probably more useful for dovetails and such.

[Image: 51283283236_8a76384f64_z.jpg]17115C34-8B02-4C5D-B86A-AFDE9770E9AB_1_105_c by Hank Knight, on Flickr

I hope I haven't bored you witih all of this. Good luck with your new bench.


RE: Workbench - Tapper - 04-26-2024

Hank, your posts are NEVER boring, on the contrary always detailed and informative. Lots of good ideas there. Great looking bench and thanks for taking the time. I'm sure there are tips and suggestions we can all use to our benefit.

Doug


RE: Workbench - FrankAtl - 04-26-2024

(04-26-2024, 11:39 AM)Tapper Wrote: Hank, your posts are NEVER boring, on the contrary always detailed and informative. Lots of good ideas there. Great looking bench and thanks for taking the time. I'm sure there are tips and suggestions we can all use to our benefit.

Doug

+1. Thanks for all the details Hank!


RE: Workbench - museumguy - 04-26-2024

Anyone see these before

https://www.in-kleind.com/store/Twin-Turbo-Vise-c34750217


RE: Workbench - Stwood_ - 04-26-2024

Cool vise.................


RE: Workbench - jteneyck - 04-26-2024

Some clever features in your bench, Hank.  Thanks for showing it and the details.  

John