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+-- Thread: Knife Display Case (/showthread.php?tid=7377036)
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-16-2024
Thanks. Slipped out this morning and attached the hinge to the case itself. Smooth and easy but I went slow. Too late in the game to make mistakes. First put a single screw in the center hole after aligning the hinge to prevent any movement, then one on each end. After that was done, I center punched all the rest and pre-drilled. (Yup, I pre-drilled those three as well, couldn't risk shearing off the screw heads or splitting the wood here either.)
[attachment=52836]
Once all the holes were center punched, I pre-drilled them all. I had the box on the woodworking bench backed against the bench dogs in the bench so it couldn't move. Makes work easier.
[attachment=52837]
Now I could screw in all the screws with the torque set drill to avoid shearing the head or splitting the wood. Got 'er done, and it opens and closes smooth as silk. Have to make that trip to Home Depot and pick up a latch that will work and that piece of molding to hide the french cleat. I knew I wasn't going to ignore it.
[attachment=52838]
So close....
RE: Knife Display Case - Bill Wilson - 10-16-2024
Wow, great job on the build along presentation as well as the display case. Can't wait to see it all done and loaded up with those beautiful knives.
RE: Knife Display Case - jteneyck - 10-16-2024
I'm in awe of the leather work. Just amazing. And I thought I had patience and perseverance. You've taken it to another level.
John
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-17-2024
Got back out in the shop this morning for a couple hours and knocked out a couple projects on the case. The first was to put in the top latches that will hold the glass door shut on the display. As always, I marked the depth on the bit with my blue tape, and center punched the hinged half of the latch and torqued the screws. The tricky part is making sure the loop half is centered and correct. MY trick is to form double sided tape from the blue painters tape and put it on the feet of the loop. I put the loop in the hinged half and fold it down until it touches the wood and press hard. Lift the hinge off, and BOOM, perfect placement.
[attachment=52844]
Center punch thru the tape and pull the loop and tape off and drill. Then screw the loop in place. Do this twice and both latches are installed properly.
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RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-17-2024
I could use locks, but I'm not worried about a break in. I'm just worried about the door falling open. Since the latches will be on TOP of the case, they won't really be seen. I'll fold the carabineers to the back and they'll be out of sight but insure the latches won't pop open.
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-17-2024
The second task for the morning session was fixing something that bothered me every time I saw it. It was a GAP. No, not that clothing store in the mall, although that is NOT one of MY primary shopping destinations.
The gap that is annoying me is this UGLY gap.[attachment=52846]
I'm not sure exactly how it happened. Maybe I was tired. It could be something slipped. It could have been one of those nasty shop gremlins. Someone fed him after midnight and then you never can tell what will happen.
I'm going with the Gremlin. So, time to fix it. I used a piece of leftover trim from the strips I made, and cut a thin slice. NOT thin enough. 
Had another go... thinner slice. Nope, STILL not thin enough. One last shot. I could fill it with putty, but I'd see it every time. One last shot... BOOM, it fits, snug, but it fits.
[attachment=52847]
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-17-2024
I installed the plug after wiping on a thin layer of butter... Um, glue... on each side. Using a rawhide mallet, I drove it home, lightly tapping. Tap tap tap tap, until it just wouldn't go any farther. Then, while the glue was still wet, I sanded her flush. Since the glue was still wet, the sawdust from that treatment, which filled the remaining small gaps, STAYED in the small gaps.
[attachment=52848]
Now it's time to let that glue dry. While it was drying, I put away tools, cleaned off the tables and the benches and basically became my maid. The shop isn't ALL clean, the job isn't done. But things are put back where they belong. That means, time to stain. So I gloved up and got the stai... Um. Wait. Which Stain? Medium Walnut? Dark Walnut? I forget? Which.. if only there was somewhere to check for the stain I used.... Oh... I know.
I took a break, went in the house and poured coffee, and read thru the narrative on line and ... THERE, there it is... Golden Oak Watco. We are cooking with gas....
Boom, it matches.
[attachment=52849]
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-17-2024
One last session for the day, I set up to cut the cleats. I had to change blades, the Big Finish Cut blade wouldn't tilt to 45 degrees.
So, set up for that. I cut the two 6' boards to 45 degrees in a rip cut down one side only.
Switched blades back.
Cut the two boards into three pieces. One four foot piece, two one foot pieces.
The four foot piece got two dadoes to allow the wires for lighting to pass thru.
I marked each board for it's location.
Tested the layout, it's good.
Too tired now and in too much pain to risk an error.
Tomorrow I'll attach the boards to the case, and the rest to the wall.
Then only the molding remains.
Tomorrow.
[attachment=52850]
RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-19-2024
I went out this morning intending to mount the cleats on the case. This would be a big PUCKER factor move. BIG PUCKER factor move. If I slipped up and drove a screw too far into the back panel in certain areas I would drive it though the leather back inside the case. I spent DAYS tooling that leather. Ah... I need to give this some thought. I know, I know, I hear some of you screaming... shorter screws, idjit. Um... the cleats are 3/4", the back panel is 1/2". That's 1-1/4" My screws are 1-1/4". Perfect. If I don't screw up the screws (pun intended) we are golden. If I go with 1" screws, that puts just 1/4" into the panel. NOT enough to hold in my opinion.
I need to give this more thought. Yeah, Yeah, BOK BOK BOK, call me Foghorn Leghorn, I'm Chicken.
I'll work on the molding to hide the cleats while I decide my plan of attack.
So I take the pine strips I bought, and avoiding the router, I use my antique molding plane... the rounding plane, and get started. A few passes and the rolled edge starts to take place.
[attachment=52864]
You continue to make the passes, moving the plane's path around the edge of the strip to form the rolled edge.
[attachment=52865]
Starting on the second strip, you continue to compare the strips, attempting to get them as close as possible as you work them.
[attachment=52866]
Shaping and checking, shaping and checking, I get them close enough. I can blend them at the transition with the chisel. This will work well enough as not many are going to be paying much attention anyway, the molding is just to hide the cleats. I'm hoping they will be looking at the knives and the leather background. LOL.
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RE: Knife Display Case - BrokenOlMarine - 10-19-2024
One last step before mounting the cleats. Taking a sharp plane, you knock off the knife edge of the 45 degree angle.
[attachment=52868]
A closer look gives you a clear picture of the concept.
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The purpose is to create that small pocket when they are nested together. This leaves a space for any dust or dirt that may be floating around the room. You don't want that trapped dirt or debris to keep the cleats from seating properly as it might if you didn't create the pocket.
[attachment=52870]