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+-- Thread: Apothecary chest (/showthread.php?tid=7339163)
RE: Apothecary chest - Blockplane - 06-13-2018
How are you going to shape the concave inside surface of the fronts? I'm seriously considering following your lead on my current project. Awesome work.
RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 06-13-2018
Now that would spoil the surprise
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Apothecary chest - Scoony - 06-13-2018
Those drawers sure do look like a lot of work.
I think I would have approached it a little different. I would have used thicker stock for the fronts. Cut a large step in the rear to account for the angle difference. Cut the DTs square, then shape the front referencing the cabinet, then shape the rear of the fronts referencing off the fronts. That's a lot more wasteful then your method, but I can get 8/4 walnut pretty easily.
RE: Apothecary chest - MarkSingleton - 06-13-2018
Enjoying this immensely Derek. Well done
as usual. The caliber of your work is, well,
world class.
RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 06-14-2018
(06-13-2018, 02:56 PM)Scoony Wrote: Those drawers sure do look like a lot of work.
I think I would have approached it a little different. I would have used thicker stock for the fronts. Cut a large step in the rear to account for the angle difference. Cut the DTs square, then shape the front referencing the cabinet, then shape the rear of the fronts referencing off the fronts. That's a lot more wasteful then your method, but I can get 8/4 walnut pretty easily.
Hi Scoony
It did cross my mind to use thick sections of walnut, cut the dovetails, plant the sides, and then shape the drawer front. This, however, would require very thick sections - far thicker than anything I had, and a waste of much timber in the cutting. Here is a diagram ...
![[Image: Drawer-fronts1.jpg]](https://s19.postimg.cc/v0mqmeh8z/Drawer-fronts1.jpg)
The side fronts would need boards approximately 3" thick, and the two inner fronts would need to be about 2" thick.
By orientating the boards and using my, admittedly, complex dovetailing method, I get away with drawer front blanks of 1" thickness. These will end up around 3/4" thick once shaped.
The other issue with using thick boards is the grain run out, which would be very noticeable. With the boards orientated as I have, the run out should be minimal.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Apothecary chest - stav - 06-14-2018
For the uninformed (such as myself), why is grain run out a problem?
RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 06-14-2018
Hi Stav
This means that the continuity - matching - of the figure will be affected. The appearance of the drawer fronts will be that of unmatched boards.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Apothecary chest - hbmcc - 06-14-2018
(06-14-2018, 09:40 AM)stav Wrote: For the uninformed (such as myself), why is grain run out a problem?
A bombe' chest illustrates 'runout' to an extreme, a style displaying what you can do with run out.
RE: Apothecary chest - Derek Cohen - 06-14-2018
Bruce, you will get away with this on a drawer front made of a single board - the continuity is automatic. However, when the drawers are separated by dividers, the effect will not be the same. It will be fragmented.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Apothecary chest - hbmcc - 06-14-2018
(06-14-2018, 10:58 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Bruce, you will get away with this on a drawer front made of a single board - the continuity is automatic. However, when the drawers are separated by dividers, the effect will not be the same. It will be fragmented.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Imagine the possibilities.... I have access to Claro Walnut in the proper dimensions. The bombe' belongs to an age of gross destruction, however. You method is far more comfortable.