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Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - BASE AND COLUMN - skizzo - 08-02-2010

Cannon51 said:

I'm wondering why you decided not to prime and paint the underside of the base.



The photos a couple posts up show how well the underside cleaned up. It is original paint and completely intact, not a hint of chipping or other problems, so I just left it. I sometimes will clean up nasty undersides by handscrubbing rust, then hitting it with a quick prime and coat of paint, usually black. It doesn't do much more than cover up the mess, but at least removes the chippy/flaky/rusty ugliness. This one didn't begin to need that, but I may pull it back out when I get back to painting and give it a quick shot with the green topcoat. That's easy enough to do, but for now, I just wanted to find out whether I liked the color.

MountainWood said:


Have you no shame? Setting up that painted column right next to your cool PM jointer?

I sense that jointer is gonna turn baby poo yellow-green with envy at some point in the near future.



Man, everyone comments about that jointer, including LOML about once a week it seems.

That thing is my strategic plan to divert the attention of anyone walking by when my garage door is open. The machine is mechanically perfect, but looks like crap. So I leave it right out front and center where it's the first and only thing you notice. I figure folks will see that POS and not pay attention to anything behind or around it.





Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - BASE AND COLUMN - Mr_Mike - 08-02-2010

skizzo said:



Glad to see you're following along, hope things are well down in your area.

Bill.




Things are well, just no shop time since about January. Too many other projects like fixing the pool.

Hope to be done wit hthat and back in the shop soon.

To stay on topic...I like the color. Looks just a little retro. You are going to have that back together real soon.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - BASE AND COLUMN - rjdankert - 08-02-2010

Quote:

Of everything that's involved in a project, my favorite activity by far is standing at a wire wheel turning dirty, grungy pieces into bright and shiny steel parts. Some people hate it, but I love it.




me too


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - BASE AND COLUMN - museumguy - 08-02-2010

I don't blame you for going with a stock color but just an FYI. I did a job in Fort Worth, TX and went into Sherwin Williams. They did a custom color in a rattle can for like $10 setup fee and about the same for a can of paint. The more cans you buy the lower the price. This may be more than you'd care to pay but, when you HAVE to have that just right color ........just a thought.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - TABLE - skizzo - 08-02-2010

One post here to show the electrolysis (spooge) work on the table. I don't have a spooge tank and haven't really done anything other than see some other folks' work with it. If others want to discuss it or make any additional points, please feel free.

I dropped off the table on Thursday night at David's place, a few miles away. He set up a spooge tank in a plastic garbage can some time back and has put it to use a number of times. He just uses a little 2 amp battery charger and some rebar for electrodes. They are connected to each other with wire and alligator clips.

The table and the tank.







The table just fits.




Well, almost. Add a little water so everything is submersed.







Drop in the rebar, wire them together, and connect to the battery charger.







Within five minutes, we're already cooking.




David checked it on Friday and made a couple small adjustments for places that were getting missed a little bit. I went back on Sunday afternoon to pick it up and clean it off.




Here is what one of the rebar electrodes looks like now.




Pull out the table, rinse it down, scrub a little with a wire brush and a scotchbrite, rinse again, and call it cooked. Doh... I didn't take one last photo after the final rinse.










That's about it for the spooging, but I still have work to do here with some handscrubbing to prep for painting and to clean and polish the table surface. But that's nothing compared to what I'd have needed to try to do to get everything out of all the little nooks and crannies.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - TABLE - SteveL - 08-02-2010

Nice work. I ended up getting a concrete mixing tub from Home Depot for about $7 and it makes a great spooge tank.





Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - skizzo - 08-03-2010

Time to spend a couple hours wire wheeling some parts. This goes incredibly fast and is my favorite part of any project. For now, this is just a 90% step to get the major assemblies apart and the massive grunge off. The wire wheels are going to get dirty fast, so will leave film, oil, etc. to some extent. Later, I'll install new wheels and do a quick once over, plus I'll polish/buff the exposed and non-painted parts like handles and knobs.

This is a long post, apologies for getting boring. There are a few comments interspersed in a couple places, but it's just before and after photos for the most part. Again, this is about two hours of work total.

Spindle cap.







Column cap.







The inside goes over to the drill press with a little spindle wire wheel for the interior.










Depth stop rod and nuts. What's this, there appears to be an extra, third, nut? That's a nice little find.







Yep... I even clean and reuse nuts, bolts, and washers if possible. They all have the same patina in the end. Keep your fingers away from the wheels if possible.




A useful tip for nuts... use the mating bolt or screw as the holder for the nut, just make sure it's rotating up the shaft, not down, so that it doesn't go flying across the room.







The table mounting and lock assembly.




Again, use tools to keep your fingers away from the wheel, make sure the wheel direction is pushing the small item onto it. Anybody else ever spend some time on their hands and knees looking for that critical little part that got flung to the other side of the shop?




I also run the threads, both internal and external, on every part during the cleanup stage.







The head and quill lock assemblies.







The quill lock casting. This part will get painted, and the machined internal surface of the column must be cleaned and protected so that it moves properly on the column.







The table clamp bracket that was such a pain to remove. Cleaning the internal threads on this will help it move a LOT better.







The return spring cover, plus a little mineral spirits rinse on the interior. The outside of this is more deteriorated than most other parts so far.







OK, time to take apart a couple subassemblies... the motor mount and the handwheel. These part intersections have been soaked with penetrant several times over the past several days. First the motor mount needs to have the large steel rods driven out. Time for the BFH, a steel pin, and the vise again. Huh, piece of cake, they come right out and clean up just fine. I'll strip the casting in a day or two.













Next up is the handwheel, which is still attached to the pinion shaft. The mounting bolt comes off surprisingly easy. Don't lose that little shaft key that holds everything in place.







Clean up the pinion and call it a night.




I'm down to the remainder of the handle, which I'll probably not take apart any further, the head, the table, and the table raising assembly. Plus several little cups full of nuts, bolts and other small parts.

Bearings for the motor got ordered this morning and should be here in a couple days. It's moving right along, looks like painting and the motor should be doable by the end of the weekend.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - Jonny Rocket - 08-04-2010

How much further can the handle be broken down? The two I have only the knobs come off. Seems like the arms are ever so slightly tack welded on the back side.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - skizzo - 08-04-2010

Jonny Rocket said:

How much further can the handle be broken down? The two I have only the knobs come off. Seems like the arms are ever so slightly tack welded on the back side.



My understanding is that the arms are either a taper or a strong press fit into the hub. I haven't even been able to get the knobs off yet, which should be threaded on. I fought with them again a while last night, with no luck. I remember having to make a new arm for a DP a year or so ago, but don't remember whether it was a WT or something else. It had a slight taper that got rapped/pressed into the hub.

I also spent time last night finishing off disassembling the table (locking pin) and the table raiser assembly. That was a real pain because the gears and handle were all pinned in place, but luckily I had helped a friend with one a few months back so recalled the hot spots as I came across them. Photos in a day or two. I want to finish stripping and cleaning the rest of the cast parts so that I can paint Friday or Saturday.


Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - Buckaroo - 08-05-2010

Looking good, I like the color too.
FWIW, I've never tried to remove the handles from the hub either.