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+-- Thread: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's (/showthread.php?tid=6945283)
Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Rick_B - 02-04-2015
I have a picture in my mind for a shop cabinet. Got the 3/4 Ply and drawer glides so I'm getting to the point of cutting some stock.
This will be a 5 drawer cabinet with the outside dimensions of the box itself being 32" wide X 24" deep X 24" high and will have 3" casters installed. The box itself will be made from 3/4" plywood - what should I consider using for the back - is 1/4" ply enough or should I go to 1/2". The expected weight of the contents will be fairly light - probably the heaviest things will be a 10" and 8" dado set in one drawer.
Thanks
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Dan Moening - 02-04-2015
While the construction likely doesn't necessitate 1/2" ply I would use because of the mobile usage this cabinet will see. Presuming the casters are to make it mobile.
The first time I wheeled it around the shop I'd back it into something sharp enough to gouge the 1/4" ply, perhaps even hard enough to puncture it.
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - JGrout - 02-04-2015
1/4" is fine the back is there more to keep the dust out and prevent the case from racking.
Joe
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - John Mihich - 02-04-2015
I'd go with 1/2" only because I hang things from a couple of my cabinets and the 1/2" makes it easier to attach thing to it.
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Steve N - 02-04-2015
1/4" will do just fine.
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Rick_B - 02-05-2015
Thanks guys - I'll probably go with with 1/4" although I understand and agree with the points for 1/2". Based on the anticipated usage of the cabinet I think 1/4" will serve the purpose.
Thanks
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Latech15 - 02-05-2015
Will the "box" have a bottom? If the box is 3/4 all the way around with a captured back in a groove, glued in since it is plywood, then yes 1/4 will be sufficient for the back.
I did mine with 3/4 all the way around, plus a 3/4 back. My reason was that I made hinged wings in both sides to give me more working area. The wings had fold out supports from their bottoms to about 1/2 way up on the sides of the cabinet. I didn't want the weight of those supports to squeeze the sides to the point that the drawers wouldn't work.
The other reason was that I wanted to be able to attach places to store tools to the back. Little used carpenters squares, clamps, etc and the 3/4 back provided the support structure for that.
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Rick_B - 02-05-2015
the box will be 3/4" ply on all sides. I'm wondering why you are suggesting gluing in a 1/4" ply back - I wasn't planning on doing that but certainly could. My plan was to float it?
Thanks
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - JGrout - 02-05-2015
I have a 3/4" cabinet loaded to the gills ( three drawers) that is probably in the 350# range loaded
it is frameless cabinet with a stapled on 1/4" melamine over mdf back.
It has never moved or bowed the sides......
Joe
Re: Shop Cabinet do's and don't's - Dan Moening - 02-05-2015
Quote:
the box will be 3/4" ply on all sides. I'm wondering why you are suggesting gluing in a 1/4" ply back - I wasn't planning on doing that but certainly could. My plan was to float it?
I don't think it was so much a recommendation as a statement regarding plywood's tendency to be unmoving as opposed to solid wood. In other words, glueing the ply will not contribute to joint failure due to wood movement.
Floating the ply in a groove is fine; no reason to actually glue it.