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Stanley plane - Printable Version

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Stanley plane - gear jammer - 09-16-2015

I'm normally in the lathe forum but my question is about an old Stanley plane.
I want to do some inlay before I turn some pieces. My plan is to make my cut with the bandsaw and put in a contrasting wood. How do I set the plane for a deeper cut for a thicker ribbon. I have moved the knob but see no difference. I get nice ribbons now but they are thinner than I want in the pieces I have tried it on.


Re: Stanley plane - blackhat - 09-16-2015

The thickness of shaving you can cut will depend on a lot of things but the wood is going to be the major one. You may have noticed that the shavings want to curl. A thick shaving is going to break before it will curl that tight. My suggestion, forget the plane and cut strips on the tablesaw.

Re: Stanley plane - Carl Grover - 09-17-2015

You might try cutting as thin a piece of inlay as possible on a tablesaw or bandsaw then glue that in place and plane it down to match.


Re: Stanley plane - JimReed@Tallahassee - 09-17-2015

The purpose of your plane is to make wood thinner and shavings are a byproduct. I doubt you will be successful making a suitable thick shaving because the force of cutting breaks the wood fibers of the shaving.

There is a way to use your plane to produce the thin wood you require. First, use your bandsaw to create a thin piece of wood. Then use your plane to make this thin piece thinner.

Good luck with your project.

Re: Stanley plane - Admiral - 09-17-2015

What Jim said.

Re: Stanley plane - iclark - 09-17-2015

I have not seem Alex around here in quite a while, but you might want to check out his inlay cutting technique (~1:35)

Pens 4 College

A zero-clearance insert on the TS would have been a good idea.


Re: Stanley plane - gear jammer - 09-18-2015

Thanks for the answers. I inlay pen blanks and peppermill blanks from simple cross and angle cuts to swirl designs. I am taking the edge off of a one and a quarter inch wide board of contrasting color with the plane. I soak the curl for roughly ten minutes while I put glue in the cuts then thread the curl into the cut and clamp. Longest I have needed so far is only 2 four inch long pieces in a peppermill swirled pattern. Not worried about the filling the center since it is drilled out.

Using the table saw to make the pieces makes a lot of sawdust for what I want to do and I have had good results with the pieces off the plane.. I want my curls a little thicker on some pieces so I can show more of the contrast.

Re: Stanley plane - DCarr10760 - 09-19-2015

Well, if you want to go the plane route (I assume you've already tried veneer). You might try backing off the chip-breaker (maybe to a 16th or more) and setting the frog back so you get an open mouth. Choose straight grained wood and have at it. Good luck!

Re: Stanley plane - mbole - 09-19-2015

Veneer is sliced in production, essentially the same way as the plane will cut. Don't know what is cutting angle of giant knife that slice it, but I believe it is in proximity of plane angle.
Is I remember log is soaked before slicing.

Never tried, but it cross my mind that you can try to put some veneer softener to board before you cut it.