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+-- Thread: Notching Studs for Romax (/showthread.php?tid=7330155)
Notching Studs for Romax - Dusty Workshop - 05-11-2017
I am running a second GF outlet off of an existing one in a bathroom. I have to run the line down the 60 inch length of the wall behind a double vanity and then down into the vanity for the new outlet to go on the end of the vanity.
The wall where I am running the line is going to get cement board for the new tile backsplash. I was going to notch the studs for the new line.
Then I realized that I may have another option. Since I am putting up cement board I could simply remove a 3/4" wide groove in the drywall to accept the new line and staple it to the studs. This would then be covered with the cement board.
I will mark the area where the line is so as not to drive any cement board screws into it.
Any reason why this wouldn't be an acceptable alternative?
Thanks
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Mr_Mike - 05-11-2017
Do it right. If you are going to tile over anyway, remove the drywall and drill holes in the center of the studs.
Also, why do you need cement board? Unless you are using tile requiring a mud cap, you can tile directly to the drywall on something that is effectively dry, like behind the sink. Also, one would not place backer board over tile. One would normally cut out the drywall and use backer board in a moist environment.
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Dusty Workshop - 05-11-2017
The wall is currently just drywall.
There are 2 types of tile going up ; the field tiles and a band of accent tile.
The accent tile is 1/8" thicker than the field tile so I was going to put cement board under the field tile to make it all the same thickness. The accent tile would be directly on the drywall.
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - ez-duzit - 05-11-2017
Wherever you notch the studs you must install a steel plate to protect the wire from nails.
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Robert Adams - 05-11-2017
(05-11-2017, 07:29 PM)ez-duzit Wrote: Wherever you notch the studs you must install a steel plate to protect the wire from nails.
Exactly.
I prefer to drill the holes. Usually i use a long flex bit and i can just cut in a few access holes across the wall. Cut the holes in the wall rectangular and at an angle so the cut out goes right back in like a plug. If i dont use a flex bit i will just cut holes on one side of each stud and drill a hole through each then feed the wire across.
Dont be afraid to hack holes in the wall if its going to be tiled over. Also seccond the not needing cement board there. Since your accent tile is thinner jist use a bigger notched trowel for that tile.
Then when you are all done with the tile you can come do my kitchen. I have about 85 sqft of backsplash to do in our kitchen but not a clue what tile to use and loml has no design sence....
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - TDKPE - 05-11-2017
(05-11-2017, 07:12 PM)Dusty Workshop Wrote: I am running a second GF outlet off of an existing one in a bathroom. I have to run the line down the 60 inch length of the wall behind a double vanity and then down into the vanity for the new outlet to go on the end of the vanity.
Can you run a line inside the vanity, and avoid the wall altogether except to tap into the existing receptacle box, using armored cable?
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Mr_Mike - 05-11-2017
(05-11-2017, 07:24 PM)Dusty Workshop Wrote: The wall is currently just drywall.
There are 2 types of tile going up ; the field tiles and a band of accent tile.
The accent tile is 1/8" thicker than the field tile so I was going to put cement board under the field tile to make it all the same thickness. The accent tile would be directly on the drywall.
That would certainly be an acceptable reason to add the hardi.
You still want to run the wire in the center of the studs or protect with plates as already mentioned. Since you will be covering the drywall, it makes little sense to do anything other than cut out a 2" wide strip of drywall and drill the centers. Also, use double gang boxes so you have plenty of outlets. My wife made sure I did that.
Extra thought: Do you have a vent stack running up that wall? If so, avoid it.
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Bob10 - 05-11-2017
So I have to ask why you don't just run the line in the cabinet and leave the wall alone. I just did this to allow for a plug in a cabinet that is on top of the counter. I have a pic of what I am trying to get done.
![[Image: Naperville-custom-bathroom-cabinetry-whi...j34ogv.jpg]](http://s166.photobucket.com/user/Bobluciano/media/Naperville-custom-bathroom-cabinetry-white-eagle1_zps5hj34ogv.jpg.html)
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Dusty Workshop - 05-12-2017
The vanity is actually 2 pieces ; a 12 inch bank of drawers and then the 48 inch cabinet. The existing outlet is centered above the drawers. I would have to go through the 2 sidewalls of the drawers and then the side of the cabinet to get the line in on that side of the vanity. Since the backsplash is getting tiled it seems that running the line through the wall would be easier.
The accent tile is thicker than the field tile.
I am not comfortable with using an extra 1/8" of mastic to build it up to flush. I might be if it was the other way around and I only had to build up the accent, but that is not the case.
I have been looking at this from the standpoint of having to build up the field tile. Maybe instead I should remove the 2 3/8" swath of drywall where the accent tile will go, run the wire behind that, and then cover that swath with backer board that is 1/8" thinner than the drywall thickness.
RE: Notching Studs for Romax - Snipe Hunter - 05-12-2017
Out of curiosity, why mastic and not thinset?
Also, if I had the opportunity to just remove the drywall, drill holes and pull the wire through the holes.... I'd do it. You only have one chance to do it right the first time.