Router Table Question - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: Router Table Question (/showthread.php?tid=7331548) Pages:
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Router Table Question - ShopStud - 07-08-2017 I was going through the junk in my garage and found a brand new Rockler router table (made of MDF with melamine finish) meant for a JessEm Rout-R-Lift, the cutout size being 11-3/4" X 14-3/4". JessEm no longer makes the Rout-R-Lift. This has been superseded by the Rout-R-Lift II, which is much smaller in size (9-1/4" x 11-3/4"). This being the case, I need to build an "adapter plate" that will mount in the current space (i.e., 11.75"x14.75"), and then route a hole in it for the new router plate (whatever that might be). My questions: 1. Is it worth building the adapter plate of should I just write off this table and get a new one ? 2. If it is worth making an "adapter plate", what material should I make it out of, assuming my router plate will be a simple aluminum one from Rockler, for example: http://www.rockler.com/rockler-aluminum-pro-router-plates I felt MDF may not a good candidate for an "adapter plate", given its low strength, and thought of making it out of 3/4" birch plywood. However, the router table is 1-1/8" inch thick and so there would still be a shortfall in thickness. Given that ply is much stronger than MDF (from a bending/deflection standpoint), would 3/4" ply work ? Would it make sense to layer 1/4" ply over 3/4" and then stick laminate on top to give me a total thickness of just over 1" ? Alternatively, if an adapter plate approach is not going to cut it for a router, should I just convert it to a work table for some other purpose ? Any thoughts/suggestions on this would be welcome. The overall dimensions of the router table are roughly 32" x 24", with thickness being exactly 1-1/8". Thanks ! RE: Router Table Question - museumguy - 07-08-2017 Ok, if my calculations are correct, your adapter plate will be 1 1/4" on 2 sides and 1 1/2" on the other side. I think MDF would be fine for this. If you want (and I suggest it), route the current opening deeper, maybe a total of 5/8" deep, then rabbet the MDF to sit flush to the top. I hope this makes sense but I believe MDF will be fine. RE: Router Table Question - ShopStud - 07-08-2017 Thanks for the suggestion. If I were to use MDF, should I be using the 3/4" as is, or should I add an additional sheet to it (e.g., 1/4" ply or wood) in order to increase the overall thickness to 1" ? Also, do you see any value in driving in screws from the side of the adapter plate into the main router table ? RE: Router Table Question - Big Dave - 07-09-2017 I think Garry nailed it. As for what to use, I think I'd lean toward gluing 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF together to make the filler plate. I would also add a piece of plastic laminate to the top to give it a smoother finish, making it easier to push stock through the bit... Dave RE: Router Table Question - museumguy - 07-09-2017 (07-09-2017, 03:53 AM)Big Dave Wrote: I think Garry nailed it. As for what to use, I think I'd lean toward gluing 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF together to make the filler plate. I would also add a piece of plastic laminate to the top to give it a smoother finish, making it easier to push stock through the bit... See, that's why I love this place. I started with what I thought was a good idea. Then Big Dave comes along and makes it even better. I never thought of doing it that way. After reading his suggestion, that's what I would do. The shop I work in has a ton of scrap laminate, at least 3 times a year we clean out the racks and throw it away. Ask around at local cabinet shops or better yet, a counter top shop, that's where we get so much scrap, laminate tops. Usually we give it away if it's a small piece. RE: Router Table Question - ShopStud - 07-09-2017 Thanks guys - much appreciated ! I should have some laminate around, left over from when I made a zero clearance throat plate for my circular saw. I had used contact cement to stick the laminate on, at that time. Is there any advantage to using Titebond instead ? RE: Router Table Question - museumguy - 07-09-2017 Nope, contact cement is preferred. RE: Router Table Question - ShopStud - 07-09-2017 Thanks ! RE: Router Table Question - Big Dave - 07-09-2017 (07-09-2017, 07:44 AM)museumguy Wrote: See, that's why I love this place. I started with what I thought was a good idea. Then Big Dave comes along and makes it even better. I never thought of doing it that way. After reading his suggestion, that's what I would do. This same thing has happened to me more times than I can count, Garry! I will say, though, that it's not often where my ideas are "better".... Dave RE: Router Table Question - Steve N - 07-09-2017 (07-09-2017, 08:43 PM)Big Dave Wrote: I will say, though, that it's not often where my ideas are "better".... Dave you are batting closer to 1000 than a lot of folks here. Your shop/shrine to woodworkers everywhere, is testament to that. |