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Glue question - nemotode - 03-27-2018
I'm making a dining room table, using one made in Denmark for inspiration. The table does not have an apron, so I'm going to bolt the legs to a box-like device that I'll glue to the underside of the table. Should I use Titebond Original Wood glue, Gorilla Glue, or something else?
RE: Glue question - Cooler - 03-27-2018
(03-27-2018, 11:18 AM)nemotode Wrote: I'm making a dining room table, using one made in Denmark for inspiration. The table does not have an apron, so I'm going to bolt the legs to a box-like device that I'll glue to the underside of the table. Should I use Titebond Original Wood glue, Gorilla Glue, or something else?
Titebond 3 has longer open time. So if the clamping process is going to take a while, then I would use Titebond 3. Other than that I only see Titebond 2 in the stores. I have not seen the original in a while.
Both glues are stronger than the wood itself if glued face grain to face grain. End grain glue-ups are not nearly as strong.
RE: Glue question - Rob Young - 03-27-2018
(03-27-2018, 11:18 AM)nemotode Wrote: I'm making a dining room table, using one made in Denmark for inspiration. The table does not have an apron, so I'm going to bolt the legs to a box-like device that I'll glue to the underside of the table. Should I use Titebond Original Wood glue, Gorilla Glue, or something else?
"box-like device" -- gluing across the grain of the top anywhere on this box? If so, how long is the cross-grain portion?
Thinking about wood movement issues here.
If top is plywood, then probably OK to glue directly to underside. If top is solid wood, consider methods that will allow for some movement.
TB-I or TB-II is suitable for nearly all interior work unless you need reversibility. In that case, use a hide-glue (TB or Old Brown or mix up a batch).
The Gorilla brand PVA glue is about the same as TB-II. Don't use polyurethene glues unless you plan for this to be out on the patio in the rain.
RE: Glue question - sawdust703 - 03-27-2018
I use gorilla glue on all my projects & not had any issues. Set time is quicker than tite bond, but it's a matter of preference. No matter which one you use, use clamps & clamp time.
RE: Glue question - nemotode - 03-27-2018
(03-27-2018, 11:21 AM)Cooler Wrote: Titebond 3 has longer open time. So if the clamping process is going to take a while, then I would use Titebond 3. Other than that I only see Titebond 2 in the stores. I have not seen the original in a while.
Both glues are stronger than the wood itself if glued face grain to face grain. End grain glue-ups are not nearly as strong.
The top is solid walnut. The part of the box to be glued is about 6" x 4 1/2", and it's red oak. No end grain will be glued.
RE: Glue question - Cooler - 03-27-2018
(03-27-2018, 12:51 PM)nemotode Wrote: The top is solid walnut. The part of the box to be glued is about 6" x 4 1/2", and it's red oak. No end grain will be glued.
I've tested face grain to face grain and the wood split before the glue gave way. If you have enough surface area the glue will get the job done.
I assume that the "box" is made up from the skirt plus two extra pieces of stock.
I think that after chairs, the joints in table legs suffer the most stress. They represent long lever arms and people push against the surface. There is a reason that robust joinery is used on table legs. A wobbly table is a disaster. Make it strong. Dowels, tenons, even biscuits help.
![[Image: Table-Joining-275-Pine-New-Top-Standard-...ne-New.png]](https://res.cloudinary.com/vermont-farm-table/image/upload/c_fit,h_275/table/Table-Joining-275-Pine-New-Top-Standard-125-Pine-New.png)