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RE: Hand plane finish - Bobby Thompson - 04-05-2018

(04-05-2018, 04:05 PM)DaveParkis Wrote: If I were restoring to sell as a "collectable ", I would learn how to japan. For my own users, I think powder coating is the better choice. I've seen planes that were done in paint and they loom pretty until the paint gets dinged. My experience is that powder coating is darn near indestructible.

I have done some jappaning. It is a slow process but requires little labour, so it is as cheap as paint. Powder coating is less costly as paint. A 1 lb bottle will do as much as 3 cans of paint at a cost of 6.99/pound. It is also about the same labor. I am doing some of my planes but may sell some later. After applying the finish I grind them and can get as close as .001 un assemabaled.


RE: Hand plane finish - DaveParkis - 04-06-2018

(04-05-2018, 07:22 PM)Bobby Thompson Wrote: I have done some jappaning. It is a slow process but requires little labour, so it is as cheap as paint. Powder coating is less costly as paint. A 1 lb bottle will do as much as 3 cans of paint at a cost of 6.99/pound. It is also about the same labor. I am doing some of my planes but may sell some later. After applying the finish I grind them and can get as close as .001 un assemabaled.

Its not the cost that deters me from japanning, its the need to have an oven in my shop. As a full-time tool  hoarder I don't have space for an oven.
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RE: Hand plane finish - Bobby Thompson - 04-06-2018

(04-05-2018, 04:05 PM)DaveParkis Wrote: If I were restoring to sell as a "collectable ", I would learn how to japan. For my own users, I think powder coating is the better choice. I've seen planes that were done in paint and they loom pretty until the paint gets dinged. My experience is that powder coating is darn near indestructible.

The jappaning is not hard to do. I have done quite a few of my planes. I have powder coated an old junker to see how it works. It is easy as painting and cheaper. Since I have gotten my surface grinder rebuilt I have been testing different grinding rocks. Thanks to Steve Barton of Solid Rock machine shop (youtube) I have not gotten a good rock and have ground to less than .001 unassembled. I probably will sell some this summer.


RE: Hand plane finish - med-one - 04-06-2018

Can someone explain how the Jappaning process is done, without an oven, such as applying, how many coats, drying time to touch and cure.
Thsnks,
Dave


RE: Hand plane finish - Bobby Thompson - 04-06-2018

(04-06-2018, 10:37 AM)med-one Wrote: Can someone explain how the Jappaning process is done, without an oven, such as applying, how many coats, drying time to touch and cure.
Thsnks,
Dave

I use Senefelders liquid asphaltum. You can buy it here https://shop.takachpress.com/Senefelder-s-Liquid-Asphaltum-p/senefelders-liquid-asphaltum.htm. I will completely strip the plane and frog in the bead blaster using #80 grit glass beads. Mask off the surfaces that will not be covered. Be sure to mask off the areas where the frog and plane are seated. I do the sides first. They need to be laid flat so the asphaltum does not run. I apply 3 coats to each side. Don’t worry about brush marks. The time between coats depends on the temperature where you are working. Allow each coat to dry before the next coat. This will take some time. I have plenty of other things to do while it dries. I will apply 4 coats to the bottom. An oven is a must. I start heating at 250 degrees for 30 minutes. Then allow it to cool for 30 minutes. Back in the oven a 300 degrees for 30 minutes. Cool again for 30 minutes. If it has not flowed out you can go to 350 degrees. You should have a nice shiny coat.


RE: Hand plane finish - bandit571 - 04-06-2018

Wasn't  there a product that began with "Pooty......"  to be used as a Japaning finish? Was supposed to mimic true stanley japanning?


RE: Hand plane finish - oarlock - 04-07-2018

"Pontypool"  $84.00/Quart.    mailto:info@libertyonthehudson.com