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+-- Thread: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood (/showthread.php?tid=7338896)
Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - Cecil - 04-14-2018
Having a small shop, I am eliminating a few of the steel legs in my shop in favor of cabinets with some storage capabilities. For example the Ridgid Planer shipped with a steel base, but a cabinet base will work better for me.
Particle Board is <$18 for a 4x8 sheet, and will give me the functionality I need. A decent quality plywood is ~$60, with MDF somewhere in the middle.
My pea-brain tells me that painted particle board is good enough for the shop.
What say you?
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - handi - 04-14-2018
Not sure where you are that plywood for shop cabs is $60.00 per sheet. I just checked prices at Lowe’s for 3/4 Oak ply and got $53.00 Lowe’s “sandi-ply” is currently $49.95 for 4x8.
But particle board really can only be used in wall mounted cabinets. It does not have the structure to last as a rolling cart.
So use the particle board for built in cabinets, and use plywood if you need the structure. You are not limited to one.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - museumguy - 04-14-2018
About 30 years ago, I made a small tool cabinet out of 1/2" thick poplar plywood. The drawers are 3/4" poplar ply with grooves for hardwood runners attached to the 1/2" box sides. I put it on casters to move it around my shop. After many years of use and abuse, it is still in great shape. Use plywood, good plywood and you'll never regret it.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - Wild Turkey - 04-14-2018
Particle board is for temporary use only in my experience. Anything I've made using it has had problems depending on moisture, use, etc.
It's cheap but by the time you've painted it and used enough reinforcements to keep it from coming apart the cost goes way up.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - Bill Holt - 04-14-2018
I have two "flip top" stands, one for the lunch box planer and one for sliding compound miter. I used frame and panel construction. The panels are 1/2" plywood. Both stands are stored under the table saw out feed and are used frequently. They may be 12 years old and are as solid as the day I finished them.
IMHO you will be much happier, in the long run, using plywood now.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - Cecil - 04-14-2018
(04-14-2018, 04:57 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: I have two "flip top" stands, one for the lunch box planer and one for sliding compound miter. I used frame and panel construction. The panels are 1/2" plywood. Both stands are stored under the table saw out feed and are used frequently. They may be 12 years old and are as solid as the day I finished them.
IMHO you will be much happier, in the long run, using plywood now.
Frame and panel also makes sense. I have some reclaimed lumber I can use for the frame. I would think 1/4" MDF would work for the panel, since the strength will come from the frame. I would use loose tenon joinery.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - appletonrc - 04-14-2018
Another vote for plywood, especially if you want to toss casters on it and moving the cabinet around. Plywood will hold up to the wracking forces it would see when you move it.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - BloomingtonMike - 04-15-2018
Craigslist is a great source of ply for me.
Come to IL and Ill sell you some of my ply. Its even primed.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - cvillewood - 04-15-2018
Now that I can buy from a cabinet shop supplier, I will never again buy HD plywood. That stuff is crap and folds like a potato chip after it’s cut. Baltic Birch 13 ply 5x5 sheet is $40 and flat with no voids.
Maybe ask around to your local cabinet shops to see if you can buy some BB from them.
RE: Shop Tool stands, Particle board, MDF, Plywood - Admiral - 04-15-2018
(04-14-2018, 06:54 PM)Cecil Wrote: Frame and panel also makes sense. I have some reclaimed lumber I can use for the frame. I would think 1/4" MDF would work for the panel, since the strength will come from the frame. I would use loose tenon joinery.
I thought about this and what about OSB; build interior frame and glue and screw OSB to it; plenty strong.