+- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Austrain Pine Worth Using? (/showthread.php?tid=7339479)
Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MidwestMan - 05-11-2018
A friend of a friend offered some Austrian Pine trunks to me. It was a live tree, that they had removed and offered the trunks to me.
I took it.
The sap is very present and what a sticky sap. I processed the trunks into 12" sections with the chainsaw and used anchor seal on the open cuts.
Is this wood worth spinning up on the lathe to make bowls? What I mean is, is the sap from this wood going to be a problem to the point where I may regret using it?
Has anyone here ever turned Pine wood like this? Your experiences and insight are certainly welcomed and appreciated.
Joe
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - Wildwood - 05-11-2018
Never turned Austrian Pine would'nt mind waiting couple months before turning or emotions just drove me to turn some.
Please let us know how you make out with it.
Good luck with it!
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - Arlin Eastman - 05-11-2018
It is not like our pine. I had a friend from Australia who sent me some and it sure turns nice and looks somewhat like Ceder but with some red in it. It was when I was part an Australian pen turning trade for a several years and I got some really nice timber and pens in trade.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MidwestMan - 05-11-2018
(05-11-2018, 02:47 PM)Wildwood Wrote: Never turned Austrian Pine would'nt mind waiting couple months before turning or emotions just drove me to turn some.
Please let us know how you make out with it.
Good luck with it!
Whenever I do get to turning this wood, I'll post my experience. Of course, it will probably be a long time from now.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MidwestMan - 05-11-2018
(05-11-2018, 03:34 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: It is not like our pine. I had a friend from Australia who sent me some and it sure turns nice and looks somewhat like Ceder but with some red in it. It was when I was part an Australian pen turning trade for a several years and I got some really nice timber and pens in trade.
This tree is named after Austria, not Australia. But since you brought up Australia, I'd like to get my hands on some of the woods from there.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MichaelMouse - 05-11-2018
(05-11-2018, 02:42 PM)MidwestMan Wrote: A friend of a friend offered some Austrian Pine trunks to me. It was a live tree, that they had removed and offered the trunks to me.
I took it.
The sap is very present and what a sticky sap. I processed the trunks into 12" sections with the chainsaw and used anchor seal on the open cuts.
Is this wood worth spinning up on the lathe to make bowls? What I mean is, is the sap from this wood going to be a problem to the point where I may not want use it?
Has anyone here ever turned Pine wood like this? Your experiences and insight are certainly welcomed and appreciated.
Joe
I've done eastern white, red, sugar and southern yellow. Never Austrian (Australian?). Ease of turning depends most, in my experience, on differential hardness of early/late wood, and rate of growth. The transitions from hard to soft have a tendency to crumble a bit if you're not holding the proper tool just right. Hold firm to the rest and take a narrow shaving.
As to resin, I have turned tamarack, and I can't imagine anything with more resin. Keep your tools well wiped with MS as you turn, and do what the pros do with resinous wood - resin set it at ~160 F. Most ovens will do that. Do it to a seasoned overthick blank for around 20 minutes. Then use shellac sealer before you try and varnish it. Oil finishes are often eaten from within by the oozing resin, making ugly, sticky spots where we want slick beauty.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MidwestMan - 05-11-2018
(05-11-2018, 04:18 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: ... do what the pros do with resinous wood - resin set it at ~160 F. Most ovens will do that. Do it to a seasoned overthick blank for around 20 minutes. Then use shellac sealer before you try and varnish it. Oil finishes are often eaten from within by the oozing resin, making ugly, sticky spots where we want slick beauty.
Interesting. Am I to understand, that I could/should turn a bowl blank (leaving a good thickness) and then let it season for a time, afterwards, bake it in the oven at 160 or so for 20 minutes? Then after completing the turning, to use a varnish or poly finish only?
I'm just making sure I understand your advice.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - Gary G™ - 05-11-2018
For Austrian Pine, Wiki says, The timber of European black pine is similar to that of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) and red pine (Pinus resinosa), being moderately hard and straight-grained. It does however tend to be rougher, softer, and not as strong, due to its faster growth. It is used for general construction, fuel, and in paper manufacture.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MichaelMouse - 05-12-2018
(05-11-2018, 04:58 PM)MidwestMan Wrote: Interesting. Am I to understand, that I could/should turn a bowl blank (leaving a good thickness) and then let it season for a time, afterwards, bake it in the oven at 160 or so for 20 minutes? Then after completing the turning, to use a varnish or poly finish only?
I'm just making sure I understand your advice.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Setting_the_pitch.html
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/10/14/how-to-set-wood-sap
You may use what you please as a finish, but there's a possibility you still might get some resin flow, so seal with shellac, as it doesn't soften with resin like oil-based finishes. Don't use water-based, so no idea there beyond the fact that latex blisters over unsealed knots.
RE: Austrain Pine Worth Using? - MidwestMan - 05-12-2018
(05-12-2018, 05:59 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Setting_the_pitch.html
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/10/14/how-to-set-wood-sap
You may use what you please as a finish, but there's a possibility you still might get some resin flow, so seal with shellac, as it doesn't soften with resin like oil-based finishes. Don't use water-based, so no idea there beyond the fact that latex blisters over unsealed knots.
Thank you Michael.