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Finishing - Turner52 - 07-09-2019

What is everyones prefered finish for solid turnings? I prefer a fairly shiny finish, but do not want something that looks like a plastic finish. For my open segmented turnings I have always used a gloss rattle can lacquer. I don't think anything other than a spray will work on those, but would definitly like to hear from anyone who has used a different method. I prefer to do the finishing on the lathe, but am willing to try something else that you have personal experience with. Thanks in advance for all replies. I am sure this has been covered before, but I cannot remember what was said.


RE: Finishing - DFJarvie - 07-09-2019

For turnings that will be held a lot I use gloss wipe on poly off the lathe. For decorative pieces I use Shellwax on the lathe. It’s a nice finish and easy to put on.

I am going to try CA glue on a sample mill to see how it comes out. I want to see if I can get s nice high gloss on it.


RE: Finishing - MichaelMouse - 07-09-2019

(07-09-2019, 03:05 PM)Turner52 Wrote: What is everyones prefered finish for solid turnings? I prefer a fairly shiny finish, but do not want something that looks like a plastic finish. For my open segmented turnings I have always used a gloss rattle can lacquer. I don't think anything other than a spray will work on those, but would definitly like to hear from anyone who has used a different method. I prefer to do the finishing on the lathe, but am willing to try something else that you have personal experience with. Thanks in advance for all replies. I am sure this has been covered before, but I cannot remember what was said.
Assume "solid" is anything non-segmented?  Often people like to use such items rather than just look at them.  Plan your finishes accordingly.  For instance, a bowl used for dry stuff can be wipe-on polyed to a fare thee well , while a salad bowl benefits from a couple coats, tops.  No sheen, but no salad oil penetration.  Popcorn bowls will be subject to heat from the old maids, so I use walnut oil heated into a burnished tight grain bowl, or a similar oil soak defeater as with salad.  

If it's to look at, not use, shellac or lacquer are just fine, and your choice of microcrystalline or normal wax will take the edge off the glare.


RE: Finishing - Bill Holt - 07-09-2019

Maybe 2 of 100 bowls leave the shop as "users".  The rest get three coats of a wipe-on poly gloss then buffed.


RE: Finishing - Arlin Eastman - 07-09-2019

Like MM said

I also use different types of finishes depending on use the turning.

A lot of my stuff is a mixture of Zinsser Shellac/BLO/DNA or WOP or Nitrocellulose Lacquer in quart or spray can.

I have used a air brush to spray Thin CA glue but I make sure I use a full face charcoal respirator or it will burn the eyes and nose and inside the mouth breathing it in but it does come out fantastic without sanding. 

A bowl that is to be used I use several coats Wipe on Poly or on boxes or plates or platters to.  If they are figured woods not to be used  I will use the Mixture or Lacquer or WOP.

It all depends on the use of the turning.


RE: Finishing - Wildwood - 07-10-2019

Any film finish (lacquer, poly, shellac, and varnish) can produce a sheen that can be manipulated and reduce that sheen. Some like lacquer & shellac are easier.

Hand rub finishes are your wiping poly or varnish wipe on/off.

Rubbing out a film finish with fine abrasives let you control how light is reflected. Abrasives normally used: super fine sandpaper, steel wool or synthetic pads. Depending upon what trying to do 400 or higher grit will work, or using water & drop of dish washing soap, oils like mineral or walnut, and sometimes mineral spirits.

Whether you use gloss, semi-gloss, or satin sheen matter of personal choice. Chemistry does come into play here whether or not finish will impart an amber hue over time or remain clear. Most product labels will tell you that information.

Of course species of wood might affect your approach in selecting a finish too.


RE: Finishing - crokett™ - 07-10-2019

(07-09-2019, 04:58 PM)DFJarvie Wrote: I am going to try CA glue on a sample mill to see how it comes out. I want to see if I can get s nice high gloss on it.

My experience with CA on pens is that it will require polishing to get a high gloss. Also, CA tends to dull if the piece is handled a lot.  That is why I switched to just paste wax for my wood pens.  It's easier to put on, and back when I was much more actively selling pens, the wax ones sold better than the CA pens.   Wax is also easily renewed.


RE: Finishing - Wildwood - 07-10-2019

One thing forgot when talking hand rubbing or rubbing out is the use of a good paste wax. I often use a good paste wax whether used a wiping poly/varnish or film finish.


RE: Finishing - Turner52 - 07-12-2019

Thanks everyone for the replies. Seems like there is no real go to finish for everything. Probably why I don't have one either. On my corian pieces I sand to 1500 then polish using Meguiars Plastx, Spelling is correct. Buy at Wallmart in the auto section. Designed to clear the fogging that happens with plastic headlights and tail lights. Works really well on corian and I believe it would be great on all types of plastic or acrylic pens. Think I will do a test piece on a wood piece when I have the time. Label says it also works well on cycle helmet face shields, so should also work on any plastic type of eye or face shield you use. Price is low and a bottle seems to last forever