more on sharpening - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://www.forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: more on sharpening (/showthread.php?tid=7350040) |
RE: more on sharpening - Stwood_ - 09-03-2019 Yea, pic fail........ RE: more on sharpening - bandit571 - 09-04-2019 I stopped at 2,000 grit... .[attachment=20377] and... [attachment=20378] RE: more on sharpening - Rob Young - 09-05-2019 (09-04-2019, 11:37 PM)bandit571 Wrote: I stopped at 2,000 grit... For shame! RE: more on sharpening - Timberwolf - 09-05-2019 (09-05-2019, 09:25 AM)Rob Young Wrote: For shame! .................... All it takes is more horsepower..... RE: more on sharpening - Scoony - 09-05-2019 I started with the scary sharp, then water stones and ended up just using a medium India, and a hard Arkansas and get an edge that will pop off hairs without feeling the edge do it. I don't get that mirror polish that a 8000 grit will give, but it doesn't hinder actual work, or stabbing my fingers deeply. Another test I found helpful was holding a piece of newspaper rather loosely, and making a slice with a blade. Clean cut through indicates a sharp blade. I found out that if I don't check for flatness, I don't have to worry about flatness. RE: more on sharpening - bandit571 - 09-05-2019 Had to re-supply the sharpening stuff, today... [attachment=20381] Also a "jug" of oil....and a wire brush to get into a few nooks & crannies.. [attachment=20382] Went up to 2K on a block plane's iron.. [attachment=20383] Just a Marsh plane... [attachment=20384] That I had just finished rehabbing... RE: more on sharpening - Timberwolf - 09-06-2019 (09-05-2019, 09:22 PM)bandit571 Wrote: Had to re-supply the sharpening stuff, today................................ Marsh looks like it was made by Stanley...The major tool companies of the day would put anybody's name on their tools if you bought enough of them....Just like Swiss watches years ago...I remember when the gvt started requiring that the country of origin had to be stamped on imported goods like knives etc....The original requirement just said it had to be "stamped"...so at first the manufacturers just "stamped" them with ink.....which wore off quickly..... RE: more on sharpening - bandit571 - 09-07-2019 Apparently this was indeed made by Marsh. Seems the patents for the Stanley versions had run out.....Marsh made their's well enough, that Stanley had to buy out Marsh, along with Ohio/Auburn tool co. Marsh made a full line of Bench planes...from #3 size up to a #8..... [attachment=20413] [attachment=20414] [attachment=20415] [attachment=20416] [attachment=20417] [attachment=20418] Seems to be a copy of the Stanley No. 9-1/2. RE: more on sharpening - Timberwolf - 09-07-2019 (09-07-2019, 10:00 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Apparently this was indeed made by Marsh. Seems the patents for the Stanley versions had run out.....Marsh made their's well enough, that Stanley had to buy out Marsh, along with Ohio/Auburn tool co.............................. Guess if it's good enough to copy....it's good enough... RE: more on sharpening - adamcherubini - 09-12-2019 (09-01-2019, 11:18 AM)jcstudge Wrote: Hey all, 1) No woodworking edge tool needs a flat back to function. This is like sawing 6" off the ham before you cook it. Guys flatten backs to aid in sharpening. Some don't know why they do it (grandmother's ham story). 2) The wood doesn't care how flat your backs are. If you aren't shaving paper thin slices, it just sees a sharpened wedge, regardless of how you hold it. Most edge tools need "relief" so if you are paring, back down, that tool will tear or dive like a submarine. You'd actually be better off paring back down with a convex back. 3) Every machinist knows you can't make a surface flat by rubbing it on a flat surface. Doesn't work that way. differential pressure, the difference between the advancing side and the retreating side all basically result in us making our tools ever so slightly convex, even on a perfectly flat surface. We typically just work at a level that we don't know, can't measure or detect that we are out of flat. 4) The outer diameter of a worksharp wheel is travelling faster in surface feet per minute than the inner diameter. So you are right, you can't actually make anything flat on a worksharp or any other horizontal grinding wheel - only possibly flatter if you are careful. Machine shops use large diameter wheels called Blanchard Grinders. Typically the spm difference over the size of the tool is insignificant. I asked Underhill if he ever flattened his whetstones and he made that face he makes like he had no idea what I was talking about. I think he hones the bevel, then just polishes off any wire burr and moves on. What you want is smooth, consistently shaped (not ragged) with a controlled angle. Nothing else really matters. I test edges by attempting to slice through printer paper. If I can draw a tool across an edge and get a clean cut, that tool is probably sharp enough. If I can push the tool straight into the edge of the paper and have it cut, that's as sharp as I need it to be. I don't feel I get any extra performance or utility from honing beyond this point I will say, polished edges last longer than unpolished. Scratches are failure initiation sites. |