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need to make a gauge block - Marc - 02-15-2020
Im trying to set up my 15" thickness planer because I took the whole thing apart a while back to clean it and change the bearings. Ive been putting it off because every time I try to adjust something I run into an issue and I have no patience.
I downloaded the King 15" planer manual (mine is an AMT) and I need to make a gauge block to set the height of everything.
Ive never cut anything off of plans before and I'm not that great at accuracy..but looking at the diagram I have to assume the numbers are in millimeters. Using my digital caliper I don't have anything with this width,,not even a 2x4.
How do I go about making this? glue up wood 2x4's ? I know this is probably a ridiculously easy answer but I'd like to see how to go about it.
RE: need to make a gauge block - GeeDub - 02-15-2020
If I were going to make that block I would use a straight grained hardwood like maple or white oak. Instead I would just use a 1-2-3 block which can be had for about $10. If I wanted to splurge I would spend another $10 on a HF dial indicator and make a poor man's Rotocator.
[attachment=24089]
Most machine setup involves a 'difference' between two points so the wood block would not have to be terribly accurate if you had a dial indicator attached. If all the angles are actually important to the method they use, forget the last 90 seconds of your life ;-)
RE: need to make a gauge block - Marc - 02-15-2020
Oh,,so I dont NEED to do it exactly as they say? I have a dial indicator....I just have to rig it to keep it in there. I remember trying this and got really frustrated. I was trying to get my hand under there with feeler guages and gave up. I want to get this thing up and running again. I'll give it a shot like you mentioned...thanks
RE: need to make a gauge block - MstrCarpenter - 02-15-2020
I think you should watch Bob Vaughan's video and print out his article. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSM7Jrg34a8
As a member here, he has contributed a wealth of information and occasionally some dry humor that you'd miss if were reading fast. I followed his instructions (the written ones) setting up my Craftsman badged Parks planer and it was perfect the first time; no waves, no in-feed roller marks or snipe. If you want to go the block route, I was taught to rip 5/4" stock about 4" wide then cross cut a few about 6" long. This assures the jigs are the same height. Put one about a quarter in from each end and use a business card on top as a feeler gauge. This used to get my knives set for acceptable results, but not even close to the accuracy of Bob's way. Hope this helps.
RE: need to make a gauge block - Robin Dobbie - 02-15-2020
When I have to make something with super accuracy like loose tenons or something, I have to sneak up on it. Sometimes I use the dial indicator on the fence to move it x amount after figuring out the difference between what I have and what I need.
If you overshoot you could glue on some paper to the bottom to add about 0.1mm per piece of paper. edit: oh yeah, and packing tape is about 0.07mm.
RE: need to make a gauge block - Marc - 02-16-2020
Thanks mstrcarpenter and Robin dobbie. I will definitely watch the video. I know of bob from owwm.
I hate fiddling with things,,setting the knives almost made me lose my mind. I think it was 2 years ago when I finally got them correct...then walked away from the machine. I'll take a look today to see how far I got....I don't remember.
RE: need to make a gauge block - Tony Z - 02-16-2020
For setting up my 25" belt sander, I used machinist 1" - 2" - 3" blocks, instead of the blocks suggested in the manual (which happen to look identical to your drawing!). If you're worried about knicking the blade, put a piece of masking tape on the block.
RE: need to make a gauge block - tablesawtom - 02-16-2020
(02-15-2020, 08:20 PM)GeeDub Wrote: If I were going to make that block I would use a straight grained hardwood like maple or white oak. Instead I would just use a 1-2-3 block which can be had for about $10. If I wanted to splurge I would spend another $10 on a HF dial indicator and make a poor man's Rotocator.
Most machine setup involves a 'difference' between two points so the wood block would not have to be terribly accurate if you had a dial indicator attached. If all the angles are actually important to the method they use, forget the last 90 seconds of your life ;-)
I agree with GeeDub to a point. The problem with what he points out is the point (tip ) of the indicator. What works even better is a 1/2 inch flat point for the indicator. Starrett and mitutoyo both sell the points separately. One can unscrew the point and exchange it. that way one can find the high or low spot easily by rocking the cutter head. The cutter head is rotated in such a way that the relieved side of the knife slides on the the tip , the other way and the cutting edge contacts the knife and knocks it out of wack.
I am not sure but I think that 1-2-3 blocks are sold in pairs and although the indicator and 1-2-3 blocks are not that expensive I think they will come to a little more than $20. The last time I bought a flat point it was $6 but that was about 25 years ao so I am guessing at least $15.
I am a Tool and Die Maker by trade and use indicators all the time. Note: I do not want to take away from GeeDub, he is on target I am just adding from my trade what works even better which is a flat point. However I do prefer to use what is called a one way gage. It come with the 1/2 dia flat point. If I remember right Woodcraft sells them. Anyway here is how I use it
I indicate cutters in from the datum surface, which in my case is the planner bed. The cutter head may or may be exactly parallel to the bed. In my 30 years with this planner I have never checked to see if it is parallel. I want the cutting edges to be parallel and I want the TIR ( total indicator runout) of all 3 knives within .002 total difference so each knife it taking the same amount off. and if one hae a low knife it gets dull 3 times faster and that knife controls the finish out of the planner.
[attachment=24102]
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My next use of the gauge is being able to accurately measure raising or lowering a router bit in a router table.
[attachment=24104]
I raise or lower tablesaw heights with it and can rock the blade to find the exact height. For example 1/4 of an inch is .250 and so I don't need brass set up blocks the indicator is direct reading.
[attachment=24105]
Lets say I measured a piece of wood and it is a hair to wide I can use it to measure how much I move my fence. I hair is .003 and it is measurable so move the fence .003. No opps I moved it to far. And you can see the 1/2 inch point very well in this picture.
[attachment=24106]
And the last two are me setting jointer knives I like light cuts on a jointer it reduces the amount of pressure on a board a bowed piece on the jointer with to much top pressure means a bowed piece after the cut. Just like the planner cupped in cupped out but parallel. I set my infeed table at .015 which is 1/64th. 4 passes and I have taken of 1/16. By the way the out feed table is your datum on the jointer just like the router and table saw top surface is your datums
[attachment=24112]
[attachment=24113]
Last Time I checked the gage was about $100 but I don't need gage blocks so I can set by feel and I don't need aoo the height gauges to setting table saw height and I mount the indicator on my planner so if I measure the board with a dial or digital caliper and it read .785 I drop the cutter head .035 and end up at .750 which is 3/4s exactlly and I can come back to that exact measurement any time i want.
I hope I helped.
Tom
RE: need to make a gauge block - Marc - 02-16-2020
Thanks for the replies. I'm taking all suggestions in so I can try the easiest way, for me. So far this is where I'm at:
problem #1 is this is an amt planer so quality is out the window. My outfield roller bearing block has a recess for the pressure spring and the recess wasnt aligned with the hole so the spring sat high. I dremeled a crescent and now the spring fits.
The manual says to check the bed to the outer most edge of the head casting. I can get different readings no matter where I put the dial indicator.
Problem #2 using bob vaughan's method...my indicator is too big and doesnt fit. (His is 1 3/4 diam)
Rigging the di to fit,,I now think my bed is not parallel to the cutter head. To me, the bed doesnt look machined that well either so that could be it.
I need to get a smaller di so I can work under the head. Blocks of wood may help but then I need to get feeler guages in there. I am not a "decimal" guy...im getting real confused.
I'm at the point where I want to throw this thing out the window. I'll go to horror freight tomorrow and look for a smaller di
RE: need to make a gauge block - mike4244 - 02-17-2020
(02-15-2020, 07:55 PM)Marc Wrote: Im trying to set up my 15" thickness planer because I took the whole thing apart a while back to clean it and change the bearings. Ive been putting it off because every time I try to adjust something I run into an issue and I have no patience.
I downloaded the King 15" planer manual (mine is an AMT) and I need to make a gauge block to set the height of everything.
Ive never cut anything off of plans before and I'm not that great at accuracy..but looking at the diagram I have to assume the numbers are in millimeters. Using my digital caliper I don't have anything with this width,,not even a 2x4.
How do I go about making this? glue up wood 2x4's ? I know this is probably a ridiculously easy answer but I'd like to see how to go about it.
I can give you the figures in inches . As posted ,if you divide the millimeters by 25.4 you get the fractional measurement. Example 152mm / 25.4=
5.984 or 5-15/16". This is the height. Width is 114mm=4.488 or 4-31/32". Thickness is 57mm=2.244 or 2-1/4".
So the rough size is 2- 1/4" x 5" x 6". Glue up 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood and 1 piece 1/4" plywood 5"x6". This will give you the size needed. Make the pieces a bit bigger in case they do not line up perfectly while gluing. Cut to dimensions making sure the block turns out square.
There is another way that does not use a gage block. All you need is a block of hardwood or even metal that is dead parallel top and bottom. The ends can be out of square a lot, makes no difference. Bore a hole in the center of the block to receive the indicator. Usually 1/4" diameter. Bore a 1/32" more if the indicator rod goes in tight. As long as the block is wide and thick enough so it won't tip over it will suffice.
You can hollow out the bottom like your drawing if necessary. The second option is what I use myself. I have machinist tools so I made the block from a scrap of cast iron. Any hardwood will do. If you glue pieces up make sure you saw the top and bottom parallel and a bit bigger than the finished dimension which can be just about anything.
I have used Amt planers and own an AMT 6" jointer for about 45 years. Still works well , especially for the price which I do not recall . Came without a motor, bought 1/2 HP motor from Sears. My brother had the planer til he passed, his son-in-law has it now.
These machines were made in Taiwan. Then shipped to Pennsylvania and re-worked til the machines passed AMT inspection.
I drove to the shop and showroom and picked up my jointer and a few small hand tools . They have closed their doors, long time ago.
mike