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+-- Thread: Tablesaw Power Switch (/showthread.php?tid=7354158)
Tablesaw Power Switch - wjt - 04-02-2020
I needed to replace the power switch on my tablesaw so purchased this unit.
Fulton 3323
The on button seems very stiff. Is this normal for this type of design. Is there any way to adjust it ? It appears similar to what is sold by Rockler and others.
RE: Tablesaw Power Switch - jeffss - 04-02-2020
I put one on my router table. Yes it takes a good pop to turn it on. It won't happen by accident!
RE: Tablesaw Power Switch - Ohio Mike - 04-06-2020
(04-02-2020, 09:45 AM)wjt Wrote: I needed to replace the power switch on my tablesaw so purchased this unit.
Fulton 3323
The on button seems very stiff. Is this normal for this type of design. Is there any way to adjust it ? It appears similar to what is sold by Rockler and others.
My Grizzly jointer came with that same type of switch and I hated it too. I replaced it with something easier to operate.
![[Image: 49742125473_3f372ea270_z.jpg]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49742125473_3f372ea270_z.jpg)
RE: Tablesaw Power Switch - hcbph - 04-07-2020
I'm not familiar with that switch but given the fact it's designed to handle 15 amps and 110 v plus only costing $30 I'm going to assume it's not a magnetic switch, rather just a contact switch. Given that (if correct) you could use pretty much any single pole switch in it's place if desired as long as it will handle the amperage requirements.
I've used a heavy duty light switch on a sander and made a guard to fit over it, which works OK. There's no provisions for a paddle shutoff but in this case it's not necessary IMO.
Biggest drawback of a switch of this type is if you lose power and it comes back, the machine will restart unlike if you have a magnetic switch on it. Just my opinion.
RE: Tablesaw Power Switch - wjt - 04-07-2020
(04-07-2020, 02:58 AM)hcbph Wrote: I'm not familiar with that switch but given the fact it's designed to handle 15 amps and 110 v plus only costing $30 I'm going to assume it's not a magnetic switch, rather just a contact switch. Given that (if correct) you could use pretty much any single pole switch in it's place if desired as long as it will handle the amperage requirements.
I've used a heavy duty light switch on a sander and made a guard to fit over it, which works OK. There's no provisions for a paddle shutoff but in this case it's not necessary IMO.
Biggest drawback of a switch of this type is if you lose power and it comes back, the machine will restart unlike if you have a magnetic switch on it. Just my opinion.
Several years ago I added this to a Rousseau 3506 switch which is what needed replacement. It works with the new switch as well.
It works like a magnetic switch.
https://www.rockler.com/safetygate-professional-retrofit-restart-protection-electrical-plug?sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla_with_promotion&utm_campaign=PL&tid=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx_-DvYbX6AIVDrbICh3aMQ7fEAYYASABEgIjXfD_BwE
RE: Tablesaw Power Switch - Pirate - 04-08-2020
When replacing a 110 volt switch, I use a 20 amp wall toggle switch.
On my Delta band saw, spindle sander and 110 volt Unisaur.
On the Uni, I have it in a metal box, inside a wood box, with sliding top, with hole in it to turn toggle on and off when lid is open and closed. With a hinged paddle, to shut off with knee.
Actually have 2 switches in box. One installed 180° to the other one, so it's off, when saw is on.
In my last shop, the circuit wouldn't allow saw and fan to work at same time.
This switch would turn fan of when saw started.