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Cutting acute angles - Phil S. - 05-06-2020

Every now and then I need to make a crosscut at an acute angle and struggle to do it accurately. The current job is to replace a 2X4 cap on my stairway. The cap runs up the railing beside the stairs and joins to the bottom side of a horizontal piece of 2X4 at about a 35 degree angle.  So, how can I make a 35 degree cut across a 2X4?  My current plan is to cut it at 45 degrees and then plane it down to match the slope of the stair railing once it's in place, but there's got to be a better way.  My chop saw will only lay over to a 45 degree angle.  Table saw doesn't have the capacity to cut through a 2X4 on edge. I've made scarf joints on my bandsaw, but the jig I made isn't adjustable and I don't have room for more jigs of all the possible angles I might want to cut. What's the solution?

RE: Cutting acute angles - Dumb_Polack - 05-06-2020

(05-06-2020, 05:28 PM)Phil S. Wrote: Every now and then I need to make a crosscut at an acute angle and struggle to do it accurately. The current job is to replace a 2X4 cap on my stairway. The cap runs up the railing beside the stairs and joins to the bottom side of a horizontal piece of 2X4 at about a 35 degree angle.  So, how can I make a 35 degree cut across a 2X4?  My current plan is to cut it at 45 degrees and then plane it down to match the slope of the stair railing once it's in place, but there's got to be a better way.  My chop saw will only lay over to a 45 degree angle.  Table saw doesn't have the capacity to cut through a 2X4 on edge. I've made scarf joints on my bandsaw, but the jig I made isn't adjustable and I don't have room for more jigs of all the possible angles I might want to cut. What's the solution?

can you make a 10 degree shim, place it behind your piece to bring it to 45 degrees?

(I know, I know...."How the hail do I make a 10 degree shim"???   Plane a piece down to it mebbe?)

RE: Cutting acute angles - jteneyck - 05-06-2020

(05-06-2020, 05:28 PM)Phil S. Wrote: Every now and then I need to make a crosscut at an acute angle and struggle to do it accurately. The current job is to replace a 2X4 cap on my stairway. The cap runs up the railing beside the stairs and joins to the bottom side of a horizontal piece of 2X4 at about a 35 degree angle.  So, how can I make a 35 degree cut across a 2X4?  My current plan is to cut it at 45 degrees and then plane it down to match the slope of the stair railing once it's in place, but there's got to be a better way.  My chop saw will only lay over to a 45 degree angle.  Table saw doesn't have the capacity to cut through a 2X4 on edge. I've made scarf joints on my bandsaw, but the jig I made isn't adjustable and I don't have room for more jigs of all the possible angles I might want to cut. What's the solution?

For a one off, hand cut it and hand plane until your bevel gage says it's the correct angle.  For a bunch of them cut by hand but make a router jig to use instead of hand planing.  

John

RE: Cutting acute angles - GeeDub - 05-06-2020

First choice - hand saw.  Second choice - a quick shop made tenon jig that rides the fence?

RE: Cutting acute angles - MstrCarpenter - 05-06-2020

You can make a jig to cut acute angles on your chop saw, but when there's only a couple I'll just fasten a 1x4 to the left fence on my chop saw, and cut it at 45*. Now while holding the back of my stock against the heel of the 45* and a short block of 2x4 I adjust to my desired angle by sliding the block left or right. I mark where the block is, hold on tight, then make the cut. I've seen cuts made where the 1x4 was omitted, but I like to have the stock solidly backed up at the blade. At this extreme angle, any tipping or sliding can make bad things happen fast. To be really safe, the board should be securly clamped in place and the hand not operating the saw should be in your back pocket.

RE: Cutting acute angles - Alan S - 05-07-2020

If you clamp a square to your miter gauge or miter saw fence, that gives you access to the angles not accessible otherwise. Just make sure to clamp the work securely before the cut, since a kicked-back narrow wedge can impale you.

RE: Cutting acute angles - Cooler - 05-07-2020

I made acute cuts on my  miter saw by first clamping a square piece of 3/4" flat stock as a "fence".  I laid it flat and clamped it at the position I wanted for the cut. 

Then set the saw on 35 degrees for the cut.  

This guy's setup is much better than mine:  https://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/cutting-acute-angles.html


He offers instructions.  Also Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=cutting+acute+angles+on+a+miter+saw&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiu8MfmjqLpAhVkneAKHdcVCbcQ_AUoAXoECA4QAw&biw=1366&bih=654#imgrc=NqLBF9zhbTlHbM

[Image: DSC02722.jpg]

RE: Cutting acute angles - Phil S. - 05-07-2020

Cooler -

I did a similar thing for an earlier project, but just used a piece of 2X12 I had.  Clamped a stick under the outer edge to support the piece being cut.  It worked okay for a piece laying flat, but now I would need to put the piece to be cut on edge.  The taller jig the fellow in your post shows would work for short pieces of 2X4 like the piece I'm dealing with now, but it would be sketchy for long or wider stock.

Phil

RE: Cutting acute angles - Cooler - 05-08-2020

(05-07-2020, 06:36 PM)Phil S. Wrote: Cooler -

I did a similar thing for an earlier project, but just used a piece of 2X12 I had.  Clamped a stick under the outer edge to support the piece being cut.  It worked okay for a piece laying flat, but now I would need to put the piece to be cut on edge.  The taller jig the fellow in your post shows would work for short pieces of 2X4 like the piece I'm dealing with now, but it would be sketchy for long or wider stock.

Phil

I would use a roller stand to support the stock.  If you don't have one (very handy) they are just $17.49 at Harbor Freight.

[Image: image_20640.jpg]

RE: Cutting acute angles - Phil S. - 05-08-2020

I have a couple roller stands, but not a lot of clearance in front of my chopsaw, maybe 6' or so. There's only a bit more than 4" of clearance under the blade when it's down so anything much wider than a 2X4 wouldn't fit.

I made a simpler version of that jig -

[attachment=26835]

It worked -

[attachment=26836]

The new piece makes the old handrail look pretty shabby.  That adjoining old piece is just short of 14' long so if I work up enough oomph to replace that I'll have to figure out another approach.
Big Grin

Thanks for the help!