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+-- Thread: Toothed Blade in a LA Jack (/showthread.php?tid=7355331)
Toothed Blade in a LA Jack - grwold - 05-17-2020
I spent a good amount of time on the Work Mate this weekend, flattening a top for a drill press stand I'm making. I ended up using my #5, 4, & 4 1/2 the most, but here's the question: The LA jack I picked up here, recently, had a number of blades including a toothed blade. I've heard the toothed blade is great for heavy stock removal ... so, what did I do wrong?
I tried it at a shallow depth, and a bit deeper; with a narrow mouth, and with the mouth opened wide. In every case the shavings were shallow and light, and I had to repeatedly clear the mouth because it jammed--less quickly when wide, but still, every fifth or sixth stroke it seemed full.
How is one supposed to set up a LA jack with a toothed blade for stock removal?
If it matters, I'm working Douglass fir, 2x10 ripped at ~ 2" and laminated with Tite-Bond II. Stock removal is to eliminate the rounded edges and the "float" from the clamping/glue.
RE: Toothed Blade in a LA Jack - mdhills - 05-17-2020
Are you loading the blade in, bevel-side up?
And are you adjusting the mouth of the plane?
I don't use my toothed blade a lot, but it saved my bacon when flattening my reclaimed doug fir workbench.
My normal roughing #5 was digging too much in the grain; the toothed blade left a coarse, textured surface, but without deep gouges pulling up the grain. I didn't remove all of the texture with my #7 afterwards, as I liked the effect.
a
Matt
RE: Toothed Blade in a LA Jack - Derek Cohen - 05-18-2020
The toothed blade is not for "heavy stock removal". That is the job of a heavily cambered blade (say 10" radius). The toothed blade is for levelling highly interlocked faces, where it will not create tearout. One follows it with a high cutting angle blade on a BU or BD plane, or a double iron on a BD plane.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Toothed Blade in a LA Jack - grwold - 05-18-2020
(05-17-2020, 08:36 PM)mdhills Wrote: Are you loading the blade in, bevel-side up?
And are you adjusting the mouth of the plane?
I don't use my toothed blade a lot, but it saved my bacon when flattening my reclaimed doug fir workbench.
My normal roughing #5 was digging too much in the grain; the toothed blade left a coarse, textured surface, but without deep gouges pulling up the grain. I didn't remove all of the texture with my #7 afterwards, as I liked the effect.
a
Matt
Yep, bevel's still up. I did adjust the mouth several times, from moderately open, to closed down, to opened wide. Did you find the mouth jammed, much, when working the mixed grain? Maybe I set the blade too deeply for that use.
(05-18-2020, 12:24 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: The toothed blade is not for "heavy stock removal". That is the job of a heavily cambered blade (say 10" radius). The toothed blade is for levelling highly interlocked faces, where it will not create tearout. One follows it with a high cutting angle blade on a BU or BD plane, or a double iron on a BD plane.
Regards from Perth
Derek
This explains what I saw, and makes sense. Thanks for the input/correction, both of you!
RE: Toothed Blade in a LA Jack - mdhills - 05-18-2020
(05-18-2020, 07:53 AM)grwold Wrote: Yep, bevel's still up. I did adjust the mouth several times, from moderately open, to closed down, to opened wide. Did you find the mouth jammed, much, when working the mixed grain? Maybe I set the blade too deeply for that use.
This explains what I saw, and makes sense. Thanks for the input/correction, both of you!
I don't recall the mouth jamming.
I was traversing or going diagonally over high spots with tricky grain.