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Build a walnut door - petertay15 - 06-09-2020
I am going to make a 36” entry door from black walnut. The boards are 4/4, so to make the rails and stiles, I will have to face-glue the walnut to get 1.75 inch wood. The question is, What kind of glue to use to glue the boards together.
BTW: I am viewing FWW #226 (May 2012) and jteneyck’s fine article here on how he built his front door. Thanks. —Peter
RE: Build a walnut door - lift mechanic - 06-09-2020
When I had to glue 2 boards together to get 1.75" thick I used Titebond III and a lot of clamps. I coat both surfaces and add clamps. I have made several exterior doors using TB III all came good even when in southern exposure.
RE: Build a walnut door - Stwood_ - 06-09-2020
Same as lift mechanic, but hardly ever vary from Titebond Original
Face your natural bows together, if any.
RE: Build a walnut door - jteneyck - 06-09-2020
My choices would be Plastic Resin Glue, Polyurethane, or structural epoxy. None of the yellow glues are good choices, IMO, but TB Original would be better than TB III. TB III has lousy high temperature performance. That doesn't mean it is doomed to failure, but it definitely is more likely to if the door gets direct sun exposure. And I definitely would not use TB III for any panels you have to glue up from multiple pieces. With glued up stiles and rails the glue joints are buried inside, but the joints in glued up panels are exposed. There's plenty of documentation over at woodweb in the architectural forum about their failure when TB III was used.
Also, beware of a storm door over a wood door if it gets direct sun. That is a true recipe for trouble unless it is well vented and has heat blocking film on the glass. I know this one from first hand experience.
John
RE: Build a walnut door - fredhargis - 06-10-2020
John hardly needs my endorsement, but the plastic resin glue would be very high on my list.
RE: Build a walnut door - Cooler - 06-10-2020
Titebond III is my go to for glue-ups. In addition to being rated water resistant, it has a much longer open time than the Original, allowing more time for clamping.
To keep the boards from sliding around while clamping I drive four small wire brads into one board and then clip the heads off leaving just about 1/16" of the nail proud of the board.
I then align the boards and when clamping the nails bite into the the other board keeping it from sliding around and is easily overcome with the pressure from the clamps.
If you don't have enough clamps, a couple of bags of sand will weight it down nicely. 50 pound bags cost about $6.00 each. In the winter you can use the sand for extra traction in the snow. So, no waste.